The French Bustle

added December 2009

The dress I am trying to bustle has the longest train I have ever seen – with inverted v lace insert panels and loads of beading. If you pick up the train at the lowest lace v pattern and hold it at the waist it looks very nice and the lace inserts form a perfect inverted v down the back of the dress from the waist, so the dress still looks really nice – a bit Edwardian really, but how on earth will I anchor the weight of such a long, wide train to the waist at one point? There are no buttons down the back to hide a hook and I am scared it will come down during the reception. I haven’t done this sort of thing before but am very handy at sewing and crochet etc.

Would be so grateful for any suggestions

Many thanks, Marian

Hi Marian,

I do one pointed bustles on short light weight trains. As you are saying, long heavy satin trains need more support. You can do 2 points close together if the bride really loves the one point design you are thinking of doing. That would be more supportive. There are other tricks and tips on my DVD. 

~Lea

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added November 2009

Hi Leanna,

Thank you so much for putting so much information on your website! As many other people have said, your website is the most comprehensive with bustle information!

I picked up my dress a couple weeks ago, and when having my consultation before buying the dress the sales rep suggested a French bustle. I'm not a fan of the look, and was thinking the Ballroom Pick up would look better. This is the link for my dress:

http://www.alfredangelo.com/Collections/ProductDisplay.aspx?productID=90616282-9f9e-4766-9d7b-f48bafb5dbd9&categoryID=8b186130-0d63-4e3c-ac5c-aea0d9566e1c&pg=1

The train is a bit longer on me since I am about 5'5" in the heels I'm wearing, but it's still a relatively short train. Would you think a simple loop to hook onto the buttons on the back of the dress would work? Or would you think adding a hook and eye would be more secure? The material is the heavier satin so I am just concerned about the weight of it and possibility of breaking. I have seen on websites that they suggest putting on more than one point to distribute the weight, but my dress is so simple I don't know if it would look right to add more than one. How many points do you think would be needed and if more than one how would you camoflauge the riggings?

My maid of honor's mother is doing the alterations for me and needs some guidance and so I was hoping you could make a suggestion to get her in the right direction. She is well experienced and made numerous beautiful dresses but obviously bustling a dress depends on the fabric/weight and style. Any suggestions you have would be much appreciated! 

Thank you very much and I hope you are enjoying the weekend!

Lisa 

Hi Lisa,

A French bustle on this dress will look much like this one: http://www.leanna.com/Bridal/bimages/DCP02672A.jpg

Instructions of how to do this bustle and the Ballroom Pick-up are on my DVD. Ordering information is here: http://www.leanna.com/Bridal/DVD.htm

~Lea

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added October 2009

I came across your website and my goodness it was a wealth of information. You definitely have great input and I would appreciate your professional aesthetic opinion simply on just "what type" of bustle for the maggie sottero fiorella as shown in the following link:

http://www.maggiesottero.com/dress.aspx?keywordText=fiorella&keywordType=any&page=0&pageSize=12&style=A3325SS

Hi Frances,

The train already has a French Bustle design. It should not be hard to use that to create a second bustle either adding to that one or making a second bustle lower on the back of the gown. 

~Lea

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added August 2009

Thanks for your wealth of information. I have watched your DVD and it was very helpful. This is my first attempt at a french bustle and I felt confident that I was ready for the fitting. Then my client asked for a double french bustle and I am unsure on how to proceed with this. The dress is fitted through the waist and has several crinoline layers making it full at the hem. It is also heavily beaded throughout the dress with a 6 inch lace hem. Any advice you can give me on how to do this for her is greatly appreciated.

The double bustle on the DVD had its top puff already in the gown from the manufacturer. From my experience with that gown, I would do a simple 2 point bustle for the top puff first, then go through the process as in the DVD for the lower puff. A bit of adjusting may be necessary to get the 2 puffs to look good in their spacing but with what you have described this should be great for your gown.

~Lea

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added July 2009

Hi Leanna,

First, I love your site, I am at a loss as to how to bustle my gown. 

I have a red (yes, it’s gorgeous!) Justin Alexander style 8115 gown.

There are ribbons running in an asymmetrical pattern all around the dress. They are sewn to the lining of the dress (lining also is sewn to hem at bottom…then under that is the underskirt part with all of the tulle and stuff).

I need to be able to bustle the dress, and love the idea of the French bustle, but how can I do this to not loose the personality of the asymmetrical poofies that I love?

Your expertise is sorely needed. Thank you in advance. 

I don't think the swirling gathers will look odd in a French bustle. The bustle points may end up needing to be placed in a pattern that is not usual for most French bustles but I think you will like the look. And if by some chance you don't like it bustles are totally changeable without any harm to the gown. 

~Lea

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added August 2009

I purchased your DVD to assist me in doing my first French bustle on a wedding dress. It is very informative-I am not quite to nervous about attempting this bustle. My question is how the ribbons and loops are sown onto the gown. Do they have to be anchored anyway to keep them from ripping or coming lose? I attempted French bustles on bridesmaids dresses and the weight of the bustle ripped the ribbons off. (I may have had too much weight on the ribbons) but am curious if this is ever a problem with your method.

Thank you, Kay

Hi Kay,

There are several issues here. The weight of the fabric. The length of the train. The desire of the bride to not have anything show, even tiny stitches. The transparency of the fabric. The number of points. Most of these factors I take into consideration when designing the bustle without the bride knowing what I'm doing. How to sew the points often is an issue you have to discuss with her. I head off complaints of my stitching showing by explaining that I have to do it this way to have the bustle be secure. She then knows to expect something maybe looking odd to her, but when she does see it she is pleased because what she imagined is always fare worse than what I do.

I have not watched the DVD in some time but I seem to recall I said something about sewing the ribbons by hand some of the time and by machine the rest and that I use nylon upholstery weight thread. I think I said you can also use button hole twist thread but it's a bit thick. Recently I found a button thread I really like from Banasch's. It's extremely strong though thinner than coats'n'clarks button twist thread. www.banaschs.com

I sew by machine most of the time but if the dress just can't get under the machine head, I sew the ribbons by hand. If the bride is particularly picky about the stitching showing on an unadorned train, I will sew it by hand with many small stitches. By hand or machine, if the fabric is rather heavy, like many satins, the ribbons have to be sewn with more stitches to support the weight. I have never had a bride report a broken ribbon back to me. 

~Lea

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added April 2009

Hi,

I’m wondering about how to do an underbustle with a very full circle skirt back with lining layer, heavy satin layer and sheer (delicate) chiffon layer that all need to come off the floor. The only seams are at center back and sides. Fabrics have no ornamentation of any kind to hide stitches, hooks, etc. I’m most concerned about how to make a pick up point on very limp chiffon, then going through all layers without showing, damaging it and having it hold well enough. It is just so sheer.

I have altered clothing for 25 years, but never bustled a dress so plain without a seam or appliqué, or bit of embroidery to hide a pick-up point. I am stumped as to how to proceed. Any help would be appreciated.

Thank you so much, Janet

Step-by-step instructions of how to do this are on my DVD. 

http://www.leanna.com/Bridal/DVD.htm 

~Lea

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added January 2009

Hi,

I enjoyed reading your website, it has very helpful information and thanks!

I am working on a wedding gown alteration. 

Not sure what is the best way to bustle this gown. I was thinking may be two pick ups in the centre back seam and bring it to the right side where you can hide the hooks. I demonstrate to the bride, she likes it. She prefers this to French bustle.

There are some concerns I have -

1) I haven't seen this type of bustling in your website. But, I have seen a bride on TV having this type of bustle

2) the lining is satin (medium weight) and heavier than the dress (soft taffetta) and therfore not sure whether the fabric will take the weight or not.

I would very much appreciate your sugestion on this as soon as possible.

Thanks for your help!

Ranee

I love French bustles and any time I can get a bride to go that dramatic route I do. They are intrinsically more secure than any other type regardless of the fabric weight. There are several pictures on my site of French bustles: http://www.leanna.com/Bridal/MoreFrench.htm. 

~Lea

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added May 2008

Hi Leanna!

I love your website! It's so informative!

I have a quick question for you. My wedding dress is a Casablanca 1856 (link below). It has a pretty intricate train and I have no idea how to bustle it. I was wondering if I could have your opinion.

http://tinyurl.com/6erxcl

I really like French bustles, but I feel like with all the material, it might be too bulky, and just not look right. A ballroom bustle might maintain a little more of the detailing, but I'm not sure where I'd bustle it to, since there the dress has no waistline. Also, do you think that I should have the tulle under the skirt bustled separately?

I haven't met with a seamstress yet, but I'd love to have some ideas before I go and see her :)

Thanks so much! Sarah

French Bustles are at their best when they are fluffy. They are a dramatic style that I encourage brides to try. It will not hurt your gown to set up a French Bustle to see if you like the look. For your gown it has to be set lower than the dropped waist. You might not like it there. If this happens you can switch to a different type.

~Lea

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added March 2008 

Good Afternoon,

I have spent a good day or so on your site, browsing thru your pictures and advice. Thank you for the wealth of information. I, as a bride, certainly appreciate it.

My gown is an Allure 8350. Do you have other pictures of different ways to bustle this gown??? 

Thank you so much for your help!

Most brides with this type of dress like a French Bustle. 

~Lea

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added March 2008

Leanna,

I've been reading your website with great interest -- I never thought much about bustles until my daughter got engaged and I became Mother of the Bride-to-be, but I can see that there is a lot to know. The dress she bought has a partial pick up skirt in the front and the back. We'll be going for the first fitting soon, so I was wondering if you could suggest the best way to put up the train -- we want to keep it very simple in back so the beading will be visible. Also, are there alternatives to tying the sash in a bow? My daughter is not a 'bow' type of person & would like something more sophisticated. The site below has a picture of the gown with two views -- it is Oleg Cassini CT203 at David's Bridal.

http://www.davidsbridal.com/bridal_gowns_detail.jsp?stid=2660&prodgroup=92

I'd appreciate any suggestions you can provide.

Sincerely, Bonnie

For this style of gown I try a French bustle first. If the bride doesn't like that then we go on to other ideas. 

Bows have been out for about a year now. Most brides prefer a simple knot. 

~Lea

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added January 2008

Hi there,

I agree with the comments from others: you have one of the most comprehensive bustle descriptions on the web! The pictures are very helpful, as are your pointers for purchasing both wedding and bridesmaid dresses. 

I know you must get swamped with emails every day asking for your opinion, so I hope it won't be too overwhelming if I add my request! I have a gown that will be worn at an outdoor wedding in June and it's a dress that I want to have the option of using as a formal gown later on (perhaps by removing the train). What do you suggest? I've included a link to the dress as well as a couple pictures of the dress when worn. Thank you,

-Ming

dress: http://www.maggiesottero.com/dress.aspx?pageSize=8&style=S5125ST

Yes, I do get a lot of email and it sometimes takes me a while to write. I hope I have not kept you waiting too long. 

I would go for a French Bustle first. With the lines of the gown I think that would look great! 

~Lea

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added January 2008

Hi Leanna!

I LOVE your website! There is nothing else like it on the web! I hope you plan to release more DVDs and a book. I ordered your Beautiful Bustles DVD and I am anxiously awaiting its arrival.

I am not sure if you cover this in the DVD, but I was wondering how you would go about doing a double french bustle? would the second row of ties just be lower on the dress?

Thanks so much! Janice

Yes, you have the basic idea. The DVD doesn't cover this specifically. My focus for the first DVD was the basics. You can certainly use the techniques described in the DVD to make a double bustle. All you have to do is design the upper one first and then with the remaining train, design the lower one.

~Lea

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added November 2007

I have been brought in at the last minute so to speak to alter a wedding gown. The bustle points had already been pinned when the dress come to me. Due to the length of the train and the shortness of the bride there is a under bustle below the hip/rear area and an over bustle below that. This is a princess line dress with no waist. 

My concern is doing the over bustle because there are several points that will be on plain ivory satin. I am afraid that hooks and loops or using clear snaps will be too visible when the train is down for the wedding ceremony. Am I being overly concerned? Or should I change it to a double under bustle? Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. 

Mary Ann 

You are being overly concerned. No one sees the bustle riggings no matter how obvious they are. In my over 20 years of making bustle I have never had someone notice the hook, loops, eyes, or buttons. They are just not looking for such things. Even when pointed out many folks still don't see it. So don't worry.

You do not have to follow the pinning as it came to you. It is impossible to interpret what these pins mean if you do not have access to the person who put them there. I would normally take out any pins and start from a fresh perspective. You certainly can, of course, change to a double under bustle. That would be vary dramatic! 

~Lea

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added August 2007

Don't know if you can answer my question quickly, but on a French Bustle should you see the string and squares through the dress when it is not bustled. A shop did 7 bustles on the dress. Three of them were between the seams that you still saw and four where between the fabric that you really saw. When the dress was down, all you could focus on was the bustle job. The dress did not have beading at the bottom of the train on at the back below to the buttock area. They recommended a french bustle and told me you wont see anything from the outside of the dress. In the meantime, they snagged the dress on the back, had a small cut in the front where no beading was and had spots all over the dress. Now they are getting another dress for us. The wedding is in a week. I am enclosing a picture of the back of the dress. I have added black marks where the points where. Everything on the inside with ribbon was done on a machine. The satin was had down with the string completely through the dress. Also, the dress is ivory and the string was white. The square where for labeling the numbers to bustle it up which also should through the dress and it was white. 

Was this done correctly? Or should nothing show through the dress when there is no beading or decorations at the bottom? The first black dot on the right or left is in the fabric and ever other one is in the seam. Thanks if you can give any advice. At this point I will have to try to bustle myself.

French bustle points need to be sewn through all the layers of the train in order for them to hold it up. It has to be sewn securely to support the weight of the fabric. I try to make my stitching as unnoticeable as possible, but you do see it from the outside. If it's not sewn through the top layer it will not pull that layer up when it's rigged. 

I know it bothers you but absolutely no one at the wedding will notice this. If by some odd chance someone does they are smart enough to understand that it is not a flaw in the gown. They know that it is for the bustle. Also, this will not show in your pictures either. 

Some brides like to cover up the stitching with a small beaded design or a tiny bit of lace, but I think that calls more attention to it. 

I'd need to see the dress in person to give you any more advice. 

Thank you for your quick response. With this job they could be seen far away and they used white squares shown through the ivory dress with white string that could be seen for many feet away . You probably can see 1/4 of the white cording shown through the dress. It was so tight that you could see everything. The dress also could not have beading added to this dress to disguise it. 

Cheryl

I am assuming they can't redo this to your specifications??? I'd be tempted to take it to someone else who can do it the way you want. If they can get a new dress in one week (which is very doubtful) I still would not trust them to do it the way you want. They probably don't know how. 

It is very possible they told you they can get a new dress just to shut you up. In a few days you'll get a phone call saying the manufacturer can't fill the order and it's not the store's fault. 

The new dress did not arrive so they gave me my money back since I knew another shop was already holding a dress for us. It is the shop that I purchased my dress from and they did a wonderful job. The other dress was a complete disaster and not repairable. We had no time on our hands since my daughter's wedding is a week from tomorrow. 

Thanks for all your info! Cheryl 

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added August 2007

Hello. I just got back from my 2nd dress fitting today. I'm so confused about the bustle on my wedding dress. Its totally stressing me out. My dress is a Maggie Sottero and Madeleine is the name of my dress. The seamstress talked me into getting a French bustle. I felt like it was very puffy and I hate that feeling. My dress has some of the pick me ups. If you know what I mean. Would you suggest me going with a regular bustle instead if I don't like puffiness to a dress?? Your website was very helpful and I appreciate all your help.

Thanks, Tammy

For gowns with the pick-ups a French Bustle usually does look better than a Ballroom. The Ballroom bustle will cover the pick-ups in the back making the back of the dress look like a plain skirt instead of matching the front. 

Many brides don't like the fluffiness of a French Bustle but you can smooth it down by hand patting the folds after rigging it and as the reception goes on it does calm down naturally because of gravity. 

~Lea

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added July 2007

Hi,

Your site is wonderful and extremely educational. My daughter is getting married in 3 weeks. She just brought back her dress from the seamstress who hemmed her dress and sewed a loop at the end of the train for my daughter's wrist (only because she did not know how to bustle the dress). The train is way too heavy for this type.

The dress was made for the french style - 3 loops were placed by the manufacturer underneath the gown down the center seam and one single button at waist (underneath). The problem is that the loops are secured only to the fabric and not the outer layer of lace (which has decorative beads). When I looped each ribbon to the button, the fabric layered nicely but the lace did not gather. 

I was thinking of tacking the lace at the ribbon meeting place but wasn't sure if this would tear the lace.

Do you have any suggestions? 

Thank you! Dana

You are correct in thinking that the lace needs to be tacked. If you tack it securely it should not tear. Use many stitches around the meeting place. You can make them tiny, but do it at least a quarter size around the point and put some stitches in the center of the area too.

~Lea

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added July 2007

HI!!

I have wedding gown Casablanca 1835. Anyway, I was hoping to get the French Bustle. However, the seamstress told me that because of the length of the train even with my shoes on, and the weight of the dress, that the french bustle wouldn't work on me. So she is doing the over bustle with about 5 buttons i think. 

I just wanted to know if her reasons sound like they may be valid, or if a french bustle is possible on most dresses regardless of height.

Thank you so much for your advice in this situation!!

Amy

Most any gown can be Bustled French. I don't think she was advising you against the French so much because of your height or the gown's weight but because your decoration is clustered from the center to the bottom of the train. A Ballroom bustle will show it off better. A French bustle will cover much of the beading because the fabric of the upper skirt is folded under to form the bustle and covers much of the center of the train. 

The way I do it, a French bustle is actually better for heavy fabrics.

~Lea

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added September 2005

Would you suggest french bustling a tulle ballgown? The tulle is not really pouffy (approx 7 layers), my daughter doesn't like all that fullness up at the top with traditional bustles and I thought that french bustles might drop that fullness down a bit and spread it out, am I wrong in my thinking? Thanks, your site and insight are awesome.

You can french bustle a tulle gown and the position of the fold can be dropped down. It's not easy because the many layers are hard to deal with, tulle is very delicate to begin with and it does look VERY pouffy. All bustles are pouffy to some degree. Many brides don't like the feeling that their butt is big, but the guests at a wedding understand that it's not the bride's butt, it's the dress. 

Hi! What a wonderful website! I have recently started doing bridal alterations and could use all the help I can get. I have two questions. 

How long should the bridal gown be on the sides. Should it be at the floor or should it be shortened the same amount as the front. I realize it should be longer at the sides.

How would you bustle a gown with a corset back? The opening at the back usually goes down to about 7 or 9 inches below the waist.

Thanks bunches!

I do a hem so that it's about 1" off the floor from side seam to side seam then start the taper to the train. I find it easier to do the bustle when the hem is up to the sides. I know gowns usually come with the sides already tapering down, but most brides seem to like the way I've been doing it. 

Many gowns lately come with a dropped waist of some sort. I simply place the bustle points where ever that drop is. And it usually makes for a better drape on the bustle too than putting the points right on the waistline. 

~Lea

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added August 2005

I have a question about my bustle - the seamstress did a French bustle (which I love), but the sides of my gown touch the floor when the gown is bustled. The hem on the front is fine. She said that if she shortens it on the sides, that would ruin the shape of the train. It makes sense, but I would like reassurance that nothing else could be done. I am uncomfortable with it dragging on the floor, not to mention it would get really dirty.

If it's not dragging more than an inch or 2 I would not worry about it. Sides are hard to get up into the bustle. I try to do it but sometimes they do drag a little. You can hem the sides without ruining the train. Your seamstress may not know how so she is advising you not to. As for it getting dirty - well, the whole gown is going to be filthy by the end of your wedding day. It only has to be clean for the pictures and your walk down the isle. Do not fret yourself with it getting soiled the rest of the day. You need to be thinking about what a great time you are having and about your loved ones who are sharing it with you.

~Lea

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added November 2003

I have my wedding gown and have been working with my seamstress on the alterations. Everything is great but we are unsure on what to do exactly with the bustle. There is no waistline on the dress and the bottom of the train sort of splits and opens up. I'm really not sure of the correct way to describe it, but hopefully this link will work and you can see the back of the dress. Any suggestions you have would be REALLY appreciated! 

Thank you so much,

Fiona

http://www.demetriosbride.com/Young/Y-16back.html

Demetrios is my favorite bridal designer. Yours is simply elegant!

From this picture it looks like that part that is dividing and opening is a separate piece of fabric that is sewn into a seam at the side that does not open. It could also be an overlay that drapes over the whole skirt, but the picture doesn't look that way. 

I would try a french bustle first. I would do some tacking on the edge of the part that is open so it doesn't stick out funny while the bustle is set. Start at the top of where it separates into the 2 sides and baste about 1" back from the edge. Continue down to a little past where the bustle ties will be sewn. I would try to stop there so that the train can flow nicely while the bustle is not set. If the bottom hangs funny when the bustle is set, you may have to tack all the way down the edge but setting the stitches back from the edge will still let the piece hang nicely while the train is down. I think with this little extra effort it can be a lovely bustle. 

If this idea does not work for you I'll try to think of something else. Constructing a bustle is just as much art as it is engineering and it often takes a few tries to get something that is both functional and pretty. 

~Lea

added November 2009

Hi Leanna,

Thank you so much for putting so much information on your website! As many other people have said, your website is the most comprehensive with bustle information!

I picked up my dress a couple weeks ago, and when having my consultation before buying the dress the sales rep suggested a French bustle. I'm not a fan of the look, and was thinking the Ballroom Pick up would look better. This is the link for my dress:

http://www.alfredangelo.com/Collections/ProductDisplay.aspx?productID=90616282-9f9e-4766-9d7b-f48bafb5dbd9&categoryID=8b186130-0d63-4e3c-ac5c-aea0d9566e1c&pg=1

The train is a bit longer on me since I am about 5'5" in the heels I'm wearing, but it's still a relatively short train. Would you think a simple loop to hook onto the buttons on the back of the dress would work? Or would you think adding a hook and eye would be more secure? The material is the heavier satin so I am just concerned about the weight of it and possibility of breaking. I have seen on websites that they suggest putting on more than one point to distribute the weight, but my dress is so simple I don't know if it would look right to add more than one. How many points do you think would be needed and if more than one how would you camoflauge the riggings?

My maid of honor's mother is doing the alterations for me and needs some guidance and so I was hoping you could make a suggestion to get her in the right direction. She is well experienced and made numerous beautiful dresses but obviously bustling a dress depends on the fabric/weight and style. Any suggestions you have would be much appreciated! 

Thank you very much and I hope you are enjoying the weekend!

Lisa 

Hi Lisa,

A French bustle on this dress will look much like this one: http://www.leanna.com/Bridal/bimages/DCP02672A.jpg

Instructions of how to do this bustle and the Ballroom Pick-up are on my DVD. 

My DVD that has step-by-step instruction is now on YouTube: 

Beautiful Bustles #1

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GCkhWvI0y_4&t=2s

Beautiful Bustles #2

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8VXQdXxVQow&t=644s 

Beautiful Bustles #3

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MhVq4a2lzVc&t=1s

Beautiful Bustles #4 - Soon to Come!

~Lea

added October 2009

I came across your website and my goodness it was a wealth of information. You definitely have great input and I would appreciate your professional aesthetic opinion simply on just "what type" of bustle for the maggie sottero fiorella as shown in the following link:

http://www.maggiesottero.com/dress.aspx?keywordText=fiorella&keywordType=any&page=0&pageSize=12&style=A3325SS

Hi Frances,

The train already has a French Bustle design. It should not be hard to use that to create a second bustle either adding to that one or making a second bustle lower on the back of the gown. 

~Lea

added August 2009

Thanks for your wealth of information. I have watched your DVD and it was very helpful. This is my first attempt at a french bustle and I felt confident that I was ready for the fitting. Then my client asked for a double french bustle and I am unsure on how to proceed with this. The dress is fitted through the waist and has several crinoline layers making it full at the hem. It is also heavily beaded throughout the dress with a 6 inch lace hem. Any advice you can give me on how to do this for her is greatly appreciated.

The double bustle on the DVD had its top puff already in the gown from the manufacturer. From my experience with that gown, I would do a simple 2 point bustle for the top puff first, then go through the process as in the DVD for the lower puff. A bit of adjusting may be necessary to get the 2 puffs to look good in their spacing but with what you have described this should be great for your gown.

~Lea

added July 2009

Hi Leanna,

First, I love your site, I am at a loss as to how to bustle my gown. 

I have a red (yes, it’s gorgeous!) Justin Alexander style 8115 gown.

There are ribbons running in an asymmetrical pattern all around the dress. They are sewn to the lining of the dress (lining also is sewn to hem at bottom…then under that is the underskirt part with all of the tulle and stuff).

I need to be able to bustle the dress, and love the idea of the French bustle, but how can I do this to not loose the personality of the asymmetrical poofies that I love?

Your expertise is sorely needed. Thank you in advance. 

I don't think the swirling gathers will look odd in a French bustle. The bustle points may end up needing to be placed in a pattern that is not usual for most French bustles but I think you will like the look. And if by some chance you don't like it bustles are totally changeable without any harm to the gown. 

~Lea

added August 2009

I purchased your DVD to assist me in doing my first French bustle on a wedding dress. It is very informative-I am not quite to nervous about attempting this bustle. My question is how the ribbons and loops are sown onto the gown. Do they have to be anchored anyway to keep them from ripping or coming lose? I attempted French bustles on bridesmaids dresses and the weight of the bustle ripped the ribbons off. (I may have had too much weight on the ribbons) but am curious if this is ever a problem with your method.

Thank you, Kay

Hi Kay,

There are several issues here. The weight of the fabric. The length of the train. The desire of the bride to not have anything show, even tiny stitches. The transparency of the fabric. The number of points. Most of these factors I take into consideration when designing the bustle without the bride knowing what I'm doing. How to sew the points often is an issue you have to discuss with her. I head off complaints of my stitching showing by explaining that I have to do it this way to have the bustle be secure. She then knows to expect something maybe looking odd to her, but when she does see it she is pleased because what she imagined is always fare worse than what I do.

I have not watched the DVD in some time but I seem to recall I said something about sewing the ribbons by hand some of the time and by machine the rest and that I use nylon upholstery weight thread. I think I said you can also use button hole twist thread but it's a bit thick. Recently I found a button thread I really like from Banasch's. It's extremely strong though thinner than coats'n'clarks button twist thread. www.banaschs.com

I sew by machine most of the time but if the dress just can't get under the machine head, I sew the ribbons by hand. If the bride is particularly picky about the stitching showing on an unadorned train, I will sew it by hand with many small stitches. By hand or machine, if the fabric is rather heavy, like many satins, the ribbons have to be sewn with more stitches to support the weight. I have never had a bride report a broken ribbon back to me. 

~Lea

added April 2009

Hi,

I’m wondering about how to do an underbustle with a very full circle skirt back with lining layer, heavy satin layer and sheer (delicate) chiffon layer that all need to come off the floor. The only seams are at center back and sides. Fabrics have no ornamentation of any kind to hide stitches, hooks, etc. I’m most concerned about how to make a pick up point on very limp chiffon, then going through all layers without showing, damaging it and having it hold well enough. It is just so sheer.

I have altered clothing for 25 years, but never bustled a dress so plain without a seam or appliqué, or bit of embroidery to hide a pick-up point. I am stumped as to how to proceed. Any help would be appreciated.

Thank you so much, Janet

Step-by-step instructions of how to do this are on my DVD. 

My DVD that has step-by-step instruction is now on YouTube: 

Beautiful Bustles #1

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GCkhWvI0y_4&t=2s

Beautiful Bustles #2

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8VXQdXxVQow&t=644s 

Beautiful Bustles #3

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MhVq4a2lzVc&t=1s

Beautiful Bustles #4 - Soon to Come!

~Lea

added January 2009

Hi,

I enjoyed reading your website, it has very helpful information and thanks!

I am working on a wedding gown alteration. 

Not sure what is the best way to bustle this gown. I was thinking may be two pick ups in the centre back seam and bring it to the right side where you can hide the hooks. I demonstrate to the bride, she likes it. She prefers this to French bustle.

There are some concerns I have -

1) I haven't seen this type of bustling in your website. But, I have seen a bride on TV having this type of bustle

2) the lining is satin (medium weight) and heavier than the dress (soft taffetta) and therfore not sure whether the fabric will take the weight or not.

I would very much appreciate your sugestion on this as soon as possible.

Thanks for your help!

Ranee

I love French bustles and any time I can get a bride to go that dramatic route I do. They are intrinsically more secure than any other type regardless of the fabric weight. There are several pictures on my site of French bustles: https://www.leannastudios.com/the-french-bustle#gsc.tab=0

~Lea

added May 2008

Hi Leanna!

I love your website! It's so informative!

I have a quick question for you. My wedding dress is a Casablanca 1856 (link below).  and I have no idea how to bustle it. I was wondering if I could have your opinion.

http://tinyurl.com/6erxcl

I really like French bustles, but I feel like with all the material, it might be too bulky, and just not look right. A ballroom bustle might maintain a little more of the detailing, but I'm not sure where I'd bustle it to, since there the dress has no waistline. Also, do you think that I should have the tulle under the skirt bustled separately?

I haven't met with a seamstress yet, but I'd love to have some ideas before I go and see her :)

Thanks so much! Sarah

French Bustles are at their best when they are fluffy. They are a dramatic style that I encourage brides to try. It will not hurt your gown to set up a French Bustle to see if you like the look. For your gown it has to be set lower than the dropped waist. You might not like it there. If this happens you can switch to a different type.

~Lea

added March 2008

Leanna,

I've been reading your website with great interest -- I never thought much about bustles until my daughter got engaged and I became Mother of the Bride-to-be, but I can see that there is a lot to know. The dress she bought has a partial pick up skirt in the front and the back. We'll be going for the first fitting soon, so I was wondering if you could suggest the best way to put up the train -- we want to keep it very simple in back so the beading will be visible. Also, are there alternatives to tying the sash in a bow? My daughter is not a 'bow' type of person & would like something more sophisticated. The site below has a picture of the gown with two views -- it is Oleg Cassini CT203 at David's Bridal.

http://www.davidsbridal.com/bridal_gowns_detail.jsp?stid=2660&prodgroup=92

I'd appreciate any suggestions you can provide.

Sincerely, Bonnie

For this style of gown I try a French bustle first. If the bride doesn't like that then we go on to other ideas. 

Bows have been out for about a year now. Most brides prefer a simple knot. 

~Lea

added January 2008

Hi there,

I agree with the comments from others: you have one of the most comprehensive bustle descriptions on the web! The pictures are very helpful, as are your pointers for purchasing both wedding and bridesmaid dresses. 

I know you must get swamped with emails every day asking for your opinion, so I hope it won't be too overwhelming if I add my request! I have a gown that will be worn at an outdoor wedding in June and it's a dress that I want to have the option of using as a formal gown later on (perhaps by removing the train). What do you suggest? I've included a link to the dress as well as a couple pictures of the dress when worn. Thank you,

-Ming

dress: http://www.maggiesottero.com/dress.aspx?pageSize=8&style=S5125ST

Yes, I do get a lot of email and it sometimes takes me a while to write. I hope I have not kept you waiting too long. 

I would go for a French Bustle first. With the lines of the gown I think that would look great! 

~Lea

added January 2008

Hi Leanna!

I LOVE your website! There is nothing else like it on the web! I hope you plan to release more DVDs and a book. I ordered your Beautiful Bustles DVD and I am anxiously awaiting its arrival.

I am not sure if you cover this in the DVD, but I was wondering how you would go about doing a double french bustle? would the second row of ties just be lower on the dress?

Thanks so much! Janice

Yes, you have the basic idea. The DVD doesn't cover this specifically. My focus for the first DVD was the basics. You can certainly use the techniques described in the DVD to make a double bustle. All you have to do is design the upper one first and then with the remaining train, design the lower one.

~Lea

added January 2008

Hi Leanna,

Thanks so much for sharing what you know about bustles. It's been helpful. I do have a quick question though. I have a royal cathedral train so it’s obviously really long. I'm going to try to do an Austrian Bustle but I'm just a beginner so I'm not actually sure how to do it. It was either that type of bustle or the French bustle. You mentioned on your website to use ribbons. Is there a certain type of ribbon to use? Also, how well do you have to sew it on there? If you wouldn't mind, can you give me a step to step guide to how to do it? What materials to use, where to place the ribbons, etc. Thank you so much!

Bride to be, Lucy 

My DVD that has step-by-step instruction is now on YouTube: 

Beautiful Bustles #1

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GCkhWvI0y_4&t=2s

Beautiful Bustles #2

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8VXQdXxVQow&t=644s 

Beautiful Bustles #3

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MhVq4a2lzVc&t=1s

Beautiful Bustles #4 - Soon to Come!

~Lea

added November 2007

I have been brought in at the last minute so to speak to alter a wedding gown. The bustle points had already been pinned when the dress come to me. Due to the length of the train and the shortness of the bride there is a under bustle below the hip/rear area and an over bustle below that. This is a princess line dress with no waist. 

My concern is doing the over bustle because there are several points that will be on plain ivory satin. I am afraid that hooks and loops or using clear snaps will be too visible when the train is down for the wedding ceremony. Am I being overly concerned? Or should I change it to a double under bustle? Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. 

Mary Ann 

You are being overly concerned. No one sees the bustle riggings no matter how obvious they are. In my over 40 years of making bustles, I have never had someone notice the hook, loops, eyes, or buttons. They are just not looking for such things. Even when pointed out many folks still don't see it. So don't worry.

You do not have to follow the pinning as it came to you. It is impossible to interpret what these pins mean if you do not have access to the person who put them there. I would normally take out any pins and start from a fresh perspective. You certainly can, of course, change to a double under bustle. That would be vary dramatic! 

~Lea

added November 2007

Hi,

i just got my dress today, and im not sure if im 100% happy with how she did the bustle.. i think it is french style she has 5 hooks and to bustle i tie with a ribbon... when the dress is down i can see the loop through the dress and one part is buched up a little from where she has sewn them on. am i supose to be able to see this when it is down?

thanks for your time, i have attached a pick of my dress, its made of chiffon on the top layer.

dani

I'm sorry but the picture you sent is no help to me. It's obviously from a website. I can not answer your question without seeing your dress and what you are describing. 

Most brides worry way too much about folks seeing the bustle riggings. Guest at your wedding are not looking at your backside that closely. They are looking for your smiling face. So, whatever the situation is, I would probably tell you to not worry about it.

~Lea

added August 2007

Don't know if you can answer my question quickly, but on a French Bustle should you see the string and squares through the dress when it is not bustled. A shop did 7 bustles on the dress. Three of them were between the seams that you still saw and four where between the fabric that you really saw. When the dress was down, all you could focus on was the bustle job. The dress did not have beading at the bottom of the train on at the back below to the buttock area. They recommended a french bustle and told me you wont see anything from the outside of the dress. In the meantime, they snagged the dress on the back, had a small cut in the front where no beading was and had spots all over the dress. Now they are getting another dress for us. The wedding is in a week. I am enclosing a picture of the back of the dress. I have added black marks where the points where. Everything on the inside with ribbon was done on a machine. The satin was had down with the string completely through the dress. Also, the dress is ivory and the string was white. The square where for labeling the numbers to bustle it up which also should through the dress and it was white. 

Was this done correctly? Or should nothing show through the dress when there is no beading or decorations at the bottom? The first black dot on the right or left is in the fabric and ever other one is in the seam. Thanks if you can give any advice. At this point I will have to try to bustle myself.

French bustle points need to be sewn through all the layers of the train in order for them to hold it up. It has to be sewn securely to support the weight of the fabric. I try to make my stitching as unnoticeable as possible, but you do see it from the outside. If it's not sewn through the top layer it will not pull that layer up when it's rigged. 

I know it bothers you but absolutely no one at the wedding will notice this. If by some odd chance someone does they are smart enough to understand that it is not a flaw in the gown. They know that it is for the bustle. Also, this will not show in your pictures either. 

Some brides like to cover up the stitching with a small beaded design or a tiny bit of lace, but I think that calls more attention to it. 

I'd need to see the dress in person to give you any more advice. 

Thank you for your quick response. With this job they could be seen far away and they used white squares shown through the ivory dress with white string that could be seen for many feet away . You probably can see 1/4 of the white cording shown thr

I am assuming they can't redo this to your specifications??? I'd be tempted to take it to someone else who can do it the way you want. If they can get a new dress in one weekough the dress. It was so tight that you could see everything. The dress also could not have beading added to this dress to disguise it. 

 (which is very doubtful) I still would not trust them to do it the way you want. They probably don't know how. 

It is very possible they told you they can get a new dress just to shut you up. In a few days you'll get a phone call saying the manufacturer can't fill the order and it's not the store's fault. 

The new dress did not arrive so they gave me my money back since I knew another shop was already holding a dress for us. It is the shop that I purchased my dress from and they did a wonderful job. The other dress was a complete disaster and not repairable. We had no time on our hands since my daughter's wedding is a week from tomorrow. 

Thanks for all your info! Cheryl 

added August 2007

Hello. I just got back from my 2nd dress fitting today. I'm so confused about the bustle on my wedding dress. Its totally stressing me out. My dress is a Maggie Sottero and Madeleine is the name of my dress. The seamstress talked me into getting a French bustle. I felt like it was very puffy and I hate that feeling. My dress has some of the pick me ups. If you know what I mean. Would you suggest me going with a regular bustle instead if I don't like puffiness to a dress?? Your website was very helpful and I appreciate all your help.

Thanks, Tammy

For gowns with the pick-ups a French Bustle usually does look better than a Ballroom. The Ballroom bustle will cover the pick-ups in the back making the back of the dress look like a plain skirt instead of matching the front. 

Many brides don't like the fluffiness of a French Bustle but you can smooth it down by hand patting the folds after rigging it and as the reception goes on it does calm down naturally because of gravity. 

~Lea

added August 2007

Greetings,

I have read through many of your examples and find the detailed descriptions very helpful. A friend is getting married next month. Due to many financial set-backs, she is unable to afford the alterations needed for her gown to fit perfectly. I am not a novice sewer, but with good direction, feel confident that I can perform the minor alterations to the bust line and bustle the gown.

My question concerns the bustle. The dress and the lining are the same length.

The underbustle looks best because the gown has a few pleats/folds placed along the center back seam. I am puzzled as to what needs to be done with the lining so that it does not show when the bustle is created and reduce the chance for any bulk. If you have any suggestions, I will appreciate your assistance. I plan to order the DVD in a few weeks.

Regards, Camille 

Somerset, NJ

All layers of the skirt have to be sewn into the pick-up points. It does sometimes get bulky depending on the type of fabric and the width of the train. French Bustles are fluffier by nature. The fabric can be folded or patted down instead of left in a fluffy jumble, but it is still there and does create more mass when it is added to the back of the skirt. 

~Lea

added July 2007

Hi,

Your site is wonderful and extremely educational. My daughter is getting married in 3 weeks. She just brought back her dress from the seamstress who hemmed her dress and sewed a loop at the end of the train for my daughter's wrist (only because she did not know how to bustle the dress). The train is way too heavy for this type.

The dress was made for the french style - 3 loops were placed by the manufacturer underneath the gown down the center seam and one single button at waist (underneath). The problem is that the loops are secured only to the fabric and not the outer layer of lace (which has decorative beads). When I looped each ribbon to the button, the fabric layered nicely but the lace did not gather. 

I was thinking of tacking the lace at the ribbon meeting place but wasn't sure if this would tear the lace.

Do you have any suggestions? 

Thank you! Dana

You are correct in thinking that the lace needs to be tacked. If you tack it securely it should not tear. Use many stitches around the meeting place. You can make them tiny, but do it at least a quarter size around the point and put some stitches in the center of the area too.

~Lea

added July 2007

HI!!

I have wedding gown Casablanca 1835. Anyway, I was hoping to get the French Bustle. However, the seamstress told me that because of the length of the train even with my shoes on, and the weight of the dress, that the french bustle wouldn't work on me. So she is doing the over bustle with about 5 buttons i think. 

I just wanted to know if her reasons sound like they may be valid, or if a french bustle is possible on most dresses regardless of height.

Thank you so much for your advice in this situation!!

Amy

Most any gown can be Bustled French. I don't think she was advising you against the French so much because of your height or the gown's weight but because your decoration is clustered from the center to the bottom of the train. A Ballroom bustle will show it off better. A French bustle will cover much of the beading because the fabric of the upper skirt is folded under to form the bustle and covers much of the center of the train. 

The way I do it, a French bustle is actually better for heavy fabrics.

~Lea

added June 2007

Hello,

I was wondering if you could do a 'bustle consultation' by email?

Judging from your website, I'm sure you're very busy. I was just so impressed with your article & pictures on the different bustles that I figured asking for your help was worth a try. 

If it's something you wouldn't mind doing, I can send you pictures of the dress so you know what the back looks like. I'm sure you'd be able to recommend the best bustle right away!

Please let me know if you could help, and if there's a consultation fee as well.

Thank you very much.

Sincerest regards,

Diana

From a picture, I can give you an opinion but without seeing the gown on the bride it's hard to do much more. I can not give you step-by-step directions of how to make a bustle. Gowns are very different and there are so many factors that need to be considered. For brides that come to me I give examples of several bustles that can be made depending on the width, length and fabric the train is made of. My opinion of what the "best" bustle is not always what ends up on my bride's gowns. It has a lot to do with how the bride wants her butt to look like. I sometimes do a few bustles before a bride can settle on a look she likes.

For bustles and any other alteration I do on a gown it is always the bride's choice of what gets done. I never dictate to a bride what she has to do. I never say what is "best" for that is simply my opinion. There are no rules here. What a brides wants is what is best. I do my best to give her options that will work for her situation and let her decide what is best. 

Hello!

I hope you had a great weekend!

This is the dress: http://www.bridalonlinestore.com/store/6503.asp You can click the pictures to enlarge them. The one of the back (full length) will show you the design... and why I'm stumped as to how to bustle it!

I've also attached 3 pictures of me in the dress. I hope all the pictures give you a good idea of what bustle style might work best.

I had to laugh when you said that it has a lot to do with how the bride wants her butt to look! Jon's one criteria before I went dress shopping was that I couldn't buy a dress that made my butt look big when I walk down the aisle! 

Anyway, thanks again. I look forward to your suggestions... at your convenience, of course!

Have a great week. Take Care!

Best regards,

Diana

You can easily do either the Ballroom or the French style and they would both look great. Though I love the dramatic style of a French bustle, you (or Jon) might not. It is fluffier and many brides think it makes their butt look big. I tell them that wedding guests know it's the fabric that is fluffy and not your butt. 

~Lea

added September 2005

Would you suggest french bustling a tulle ballgown? The tulle is not really pouffy (approx 7 layers), my daughter doesn't like all that fullness up at the top with traditional bustles and I thought that french bustles might drop that fullness down a bit and spread it out, am I wrong in my thinking? Thanks, your site and insight are awesome.

You can french bustle a tulle gown and the position of the fold can be dropped down. It's not easy because the many layers are hard to deal with, tulle is very delicate to begin with and it does look VERY pouffy. All bustles are pouffy to some degree. Many brides don't like the feeling that their butt is big, but the guests at a wedding understand that it's not the bride's butt, it's the dress. 

~Lea

added September 2005

Hi! What a wonderful website! I have recently started doing bridal alterations and could use all the help I can get. I have two questions. 

How long should the bridal gown be on the sides. Should it be at the floor or should it be shortened the same amount as the front. I realize it should be longer at the sides.

How would you bustle a gown with a corset back? The opening at the back usually goes down to about 7 or 9 inches below the waist.

Thanks bunches!

I do a hem so that it's about 1" off the floor from side seam to side seam then start the taper to the train. I find it easier to do the bustle when the hem is up to the sides. I know gowns usually come with the sides already tapering down, but most brides seem to like the way I've been doing it. 

Many gowns lately come with a dropped waist of some sort. I simply place the bustle points where ever that drop is. And it usually makes for a better drape on the bustle too than putting the points right on the waistline. 

~Lea

added August 2005

I have a question about my bustle - the seamstress did a French bustle (which I love), but the sides of my gown touch the floor when the gown is bustled. The hem on the front is fine. She said that if she shortens it on the sides, that would ruin the shape of the train. It makes sense, but I would like reassurance that nothing else could be done. I am uncomfortable with it dragging on the floor, not to mention it would get really dirty.

If it's not dragging more than an inch or 2 I would not worry about it. Sides are hard to get up into the bustle. I try to do it but sometimes they do drag a little. You can hem the sides without ruining the train. Your seamstress may not know how so she is advising you not to. As for it getting dirty - well, the whole gown is going to be filthy by the end of your wedding day. It only has to be clean for the pictures and your walk down the isle. Do not fret yourself with it getting soiled the rest of the day. You need to be thinking about what a great time you are having and about your loved ones who are sharing it with you.

~Lea

added November 2003

I have my wedding gown and have been working with my seamstress on the alterations. Everything is great but we are unsure on what to do exactly with the bustle. There is no waistline on the dress and the bottom of the train sort of splits and opens up. I'm really not sure of the correct way to describe it, but hopefully this link will work and you can see the back of the dress. Any suggestions you have would be REALLY appreciated! 

Thank you so much,

Fiona

http://www.demetriosbride.com/Young/Y-16back.html

Demetrios is my favorite bridal designer. Yours is simply elegant!

From this picture it looks like that part that is dividing and opening is a separate piece of fabric that is sewn into a seam at the side that does not open. It could also be an overlay that drapes over the whole skirt, but the picture doesn't look that way. 

I would try a french bustle first. I would do some tacking on the edge of the part that is open so it doesn't stick out funny while the bustle is set. Start at the top of where it separates into the 2 sides and baste about 1" back from the edge. Continue down to a little past where the bustle ties will be sewn. I would try to stop there so that the train can flow nicely while the bustle is not set. If the bottom hangs funny when the bustle is set, you may have to tack all the way down the edge but setting the stitches back from the edge will still let the piece hang nicely while the train is down. I think with this little extra effort it can be a lovely bustle. 

If this idea does not work for you I'll try to think of something else. Constructing a bustle is just as much art as it is engineering and it often takes a few tries to get something that is both functional and pretty. 

~Lea