It's Just Too Big

added January 2022

I need advice from someone experienced in bridal gown alterations. My daughter got a good deal on a new $2600 gown which is a strapless A-line with a ruched bodice with a side zipper closure. It is made of a lovely 100% silk doupioni. Sounds good so far, but now she has asked me to make it fit her which means making a size 8 gown fit a size 2 Petite body. I am fairly good at sewing but have never had any experience with a wedding gown. My goal is for the finished gown have the same lines and look as the original but be much smaller. This is my plan of action. Please tell me if I am taking the wrong approach.

I have pretty much taken the bodice apart, piece by piece. I plan to scale each piece down to size and then reassemble them. There are 3 layers of fabric in the actual bodice (the outer fabric, the underlining and the lining) plus 2 more layers in the built-in corset (the corset and the corset lining). That makes a total of 5 layers I have to resize. I am fitting the corset to her first, and then transferring the adjustments I make in the corset to the bodice pieces. My idea is to make the corset fit slightly more snugly than the gown to alleviate any stress on the gown seams. The skirt of the gown will not be quite so complicated.

Here is my main concern. In my opinion, the ruching, combined with the substantial weight of the underlining, makes the fabric in the zipper closure entirely too bulky. I am considering removing some of the bulk by basting the underlining to the gown fabric just inside where the new side seam will be folded back to make the zipper opening and then trimming the underlining close my basting line. The basting tread will hold the single layer of underlining in place while I install the zipper after which the zipper stitching will hold it securely. That way when I sew in the zipper there will be only one layer of underlining rather than two as there is now. Does that sound like a good or bad idea? 

Please feel free to point out any places where my reasoning is faulty. I am very open to suggestions. I certainly do not want to ruin this beautiful gown.

Thanks. Betty

P.S. You probably are wondering why I have accepted this job. I have been altering clothing to fit this particular daughter for 24 years and she is convinced I will do a better job than a local alteration person. Time will tell if her faith in me is justified.

I see no flaws in any of your thinking. Actually, it sounds like you do know what you are doing quite well! Your idea about the corset is right on. This is the reason for a corset - to relieve the stress on the dress. Relieving the bulk at the zipper sound like a good way to go too.

You can't ruin the dress by trying things. If it doesn't work, you just have to take it apart and try something else. Taking in a dress that much is a huge job. You sometimes have to do odd things to get it right. I think you will be pleased with the result. YOU GOT THIS!

~Lea

added January 2010

Hi Leanna,

I found my dream dress - but of course it was over my budget. So after some research I discovered I could order it on-line at a price that was well within my budget and this is what I did. The size that the sizing chart indicated i should order was 2-3 sizes bigger than my normal size (normally a street 2-4 - dress i ordered was an 8). But I knew wedding dresses were sized small and thought it would be fine. The dress came yesterday - and it is too big everywhere (even the area that required I order the size 8 is noticeably big!). I think I could have safely went with a size 6. I have been a little concerned about this ever since the dress arrived - but finding your sight has made me feel much better. I have read a number of previous questions and responses you have provided and it seems that altering down one or two sizes should not be a huge problem. 

However, I just wanted to check in and see if there was any caveat to this when the dress is Alencon lace? My dress is a Watters 1048B http://watters.com/product.php?coll=brides&showid=668 

I am specifically concerned about the chest area - as you can see from the photo (I hope) there is an underlining that covers the breasts - and because my dress is a big - I am afraid that once altered to fit properly - they will sit way too high and look bad. Is this something that can be fixed?

My other question is about hemming - I actually would like to hem the dress so that there is no train at all... just a normal floor lenth dress... is this alot more work/money than the usual hemming/adding a bustle? I am 5'3 and don't plan on wearing shoes any higher than 2inches - so I think I will lose most of the train anyway.

Thank you in advance for help!

Heather

Hi Heather, 

Most gowns are taken in at the side seams. This should work for this gown but I can't be certain without being able to see the seams. You said you are concerned that the breast will be moved too high. Sewing any gown in at the sides does not effect the placement of the bustline. That can be changed by adjusting the halter at the back of the neck but you have not said that needs to be done. 

Now, the side of the bodice where the lace edge travels under your arm may be effected by taking in the sides. Depending on how much is taken in, this edge will move under your arm more and may move so close to the side of your arm that you may feel irritated at it's rubbing the side/underside of your arm. This can be adjusted if you need the bodice taken in so much that this happens. Am I making sense?

The hemming can be done as you are wanting and I have done this for many brides. It does cost more than a regular bridal hem that is done only on the front of the dress. It usually doubles the cost. You do have an option to permanently bustle the gown. This looks perfectly natural and is a great way to lower the cost.

~Lea

added November 2009

Hi Leanna,

Your website is just what I've been looking for.

I bought a sample gown (Adele Wechsler, Arianna) which was 1-2 sizes too big. I took it to a seamstress who took a quick look/feel at how it fit and then took it in 1/2" on each side through the bodice (It has aside zip). I checked the skirt part (i.e. below the zipper) and his had not been altered. Anyway, while I feel the 1/2" was enough from mid ribcage up (b/c I have wide shoulders and D cups breasts) it is quite roomy at the waist and hips. I could fit a small pillow in the tummy region or gain 10 lbs. It basically gets roomier at the waist, not hips. Perhaps it's b/c I'm long torsoed and tall and my waist is lower than the waist of the gown or maybe my expectations are screwy. i don’t know. I would like the dress to be fitted through the entire ruched area or at least at the waist. is this possible? the seamstress said she couldn’t take it in at the back b/c of the ruching which would poof out if she took in the lining but is there a reason she couldn't take it in more at the sides just in the waist area down? I've attached pictures with how I’d like it (pinned in back, warmer lighting, how it is (cooler lighting), and a back view w/ it pinned in the front. If it can' be done, I don't want to take it to another seamstress who tries and fails on my dime (which I have few of). Also, would cups help?

Thank you so much for your time, Alison

Hi Alison, 

I happen to be sitting at my computer when your email came in. I'm intrigued by your experience. Can I ask you a few questions? 

1. Did the seamstress fit you in the dress or just look at it and decide to sew the 1/2 inch? I mean did she put pins in the side seams when you are in the dress to determine who much needed to be sewn? 

2. Did she give the reason for not doing the sewing again once you questioned her or did she volunteer that opinion? 

3. Do you have another sewing professional to go to?

Hi Leanna, 

Wow, that was quick :) My answer to your questions are below. 

1. She did look at and feel me in the dress and pin it then but only at the top and bottom of the ruched bit I.e., not at the waist. I asked her about this at the time and she told me she was going to take in 1/2" between he two pin points. From what I gather from your site his isn't unusual. 

2. When I mentioned that I'd like it tighter at the waist she said that since the lining had a seam at the back it could be taken in there but not the top part b/c of the ruching/pleating. She did not volunteer information about the sides. 

3. I found this person on Google and yelp reviewing site and there were others. 

The impression I got was that she's very busy and didn't want to redo it but that was more from non-verbal cues. I could've pushed the issue but a) I'm not overly assertive and b) I didn't sb who resented the work while doing it  

Thank you so much for your prompt response, Alison

Hi Alison, 

Every sewing professional works differently and I can't knock her methods but I find them unusual, and they did not result in your satisfaction. I would have pinned the seam I am doing the work on in every place the work is done. For you that would be all the way down the side seam, even though the ruching. I have often taken in more than 1/2 inch through ruching. Whatever is needed is what gets done. I pin like this so the bride can have a good idea of what it will feel like once I do the work. It helps me communicate with her so I can understand what kind of fit she is going for. 

Gown designs like yours need to be snug in the waist. You didn't say but I bet there is boning in the bodice. Boning needs to have support to do it's job properly. That support comes from pushing up from the waist. If the waist area is not snug, it has nothing to push against and sags. I don't know if that is what you are not liking about the feeling of the dress. A ruched dress is hard to make the waist look small because of the bulk all the fabric gathered there makes. It's not an easy thing to take in these types of seams. It's just a lot of fabric to deal with. 

All that said, I think she did not do a good job and I doubt she will know how to fit it right. I generally say that if a sewing professional does not get a good fit and gives you a questionable reason why she can't redo it, than she probably doesn't know how. I don't always get things right the first time but I am always willing to redo any job that is not what the bride wanted. In most cases it's not a question of doing it "right" or not. Right" is what the bride wants. It's also not always easy for a sewing professional to understand what a bride wants so jobs need to be redone often. A good sewing professional will do this willingly because she understands that altering a wedding gown is a process that often includes doing things over until they are right. 

Your observations of her nonverbal ques might be right on, but this time of year is not normally a very heavy workload time, at least for me it's not.  There are limits to what can be fixed on any garment, but I do think your situation is not one where the job is impossible. Actually, it seems rather elementary to me. She should have been able to get it right the first time, or at least closer to right for what you are wanting. You did tell her clearly enough and I don't think she listened to you as she should have. 

You have a couple choices here. You can try to communicate with her better by being more insistent in your desire that the seams be taken in more. You are not being a bridzilla in this. She is working for you and needs to do the job to your satisfaction. You do not have to pay her until the work is done to your liking, BUT she also does not have to release the gown until you pay. SO, you have a difficult choice. I cannot say for sure that she has the knowledge to do this job right, so I think you might be better off paying her for the work done and going to another who can do it right. It will be costly but the odds of you getting the gown done right are higher. 

I hope this helps!

~Lea

Hi Leanna,

Thank you for taking the time to give me your opinion. Your answer gives me more confidence in requesting that it get taken in more so I will take it somewhere - but somewhere else. 

Thank you, Alison

added October 2008

Hi there,

I would greatly appreciate your feedback on whether or not the following alterations would be possible. 

I have found a gown that is on sale at a great price, but it's a sample and will require alterations. The sample dress size is 10 (bust 36.5 and waist 28), however my size is about a 2 (bust 32.5, waist 22.5). So as you can see significant alterations will be required. I spoke to a recommended wedding dress maker/designer who is based near where I live, and she said that it would be possible to make necessary adjustments and make the dress fit, but she won't know exactly what is involved until she can see the dress.

Once she saw the pictures, her opinion was that the skirt would be straight forward, however the bustier would be quite a lot of work as the bust seams would need to be opened up. She also said that the alterations would likely result in design changes to some extent. 

From your experience do you think an adjustment of this size would be possible or would you advise against it? If you think it would result in design changes, would these be significant? Finally, do you have any suggestions as to how you would approach altering this dress?

Many thanks in advance, Kate

Hi Kate,

I'd need to see the dress on you and be able to look inside it to see how the seams are constructed, But this should not be an overly difficult alteration. I would do it at the side seams normally. It should not need to be taken apart in the bust seams but that is a possibility and something I would determine when I saw you in the gown. Most of my brides who are small-busted like to add padding to the bust instead of making the dress fit them. 

Normally I recommend that any bride not buy a gown over 2 sizes too big or too small to make the alterations more possible. When you go past these amounts, it does become more difficult. There may be complications for your gown that I cannot see with just a picture. You'll need to have a consultation with the lady you pick and ask lots of questions. If she can answer them all and makes you feel confident that she knows what she is doing than you should get a good alteration job.

Thank you so much for your quick reply Leanna, I really appreciate it.

I would have to purchase the gown from American as its not available here in Ireland, and then have it altered here. Which wouldn't be a problem except that i can't show my seamstress the gown before purchasing it.

All in all i think it’s a little too risky, although theoretically it may be possible the fact that i can't talk through the necessary alterations in advance of buying the gown makes me feel that it’s too much of a risk and there would be too much money at stake if we decided the alterations might be too difficult. 

Many thanks again for your advice.

Best regards, Kate

Yes, Kate. I misunderstood your first letter. I thought you already had this gown. In most cases I do recommend that you do not buy a gown over 2 sizes too large or small. Alterations are possible but the cost does raise at that situation and the money you save gets eaten up in the alterations. 

no- I made sure to check first. i had read your website before when researching alterations online, so I thought it better to ask advice before making such a large purchase. I don't mind about the cost as the dress is a sample and I'm saving a lot that way, however i would be very worried about the risks attached to such large alterations considering the construction of the gown cannot be assessed before purchase. 

The seamstress in the shop said it would be very possible but of course they are biased. I would feel more comfortable purchasing a gown on spec, if the measurements were closer to my own.

Thanks again Leanna, your website and advice service is invaluable.

Best regards, Kate

added August 2008

Love your website!

I need to take in the bodice of a silk, polyester lined, flower girl's dress with short set-in sleeves. The lining is attached at the sleeves, but not at the waist as it is attached to a separate crinoline. Must I take the bodice apart or is it possible to simply stitch in about 3/4 inch on each side of the bodice? The sleeve is slightly large as well. Is there a way to take tucks in that without it bunching up? 

Thanks,

Dorrine

You can do it either way. It depends on how much you want to put into it. Simply sewing up the side without taking apart anything is a viable method, but it's not proper. I would never do that unless I was in a pinch and doing a favor for a friend. The proper way is to take apart the armhole seam and waistline, take in the side outer and lining fabric separately, take in the sleeve as necessary, and then sew the underarm and waist seams back. 

Many a flower girl dress is used for only the wedding day and if that is your situation, it might not make sense for you to put in the extra effort to do the alteration properly. A quicky sewing can look just fine if this dress is not going to be used again.

~Lea

added August 2008

Love your website!

I need to take in the bodice of a silk, polyester lined, flower girl's dress with short set-in sleeves. The lining is attached at the sleeves, but not at the waist as it is attached to a separate crinoline. Must I take the bodice apart or is it possible to simply stitch in about 3/4 inch on each side of the bodice? The sleeve is slightly large as well. Is there a way to take tucks in that without it bunching up? 

Thanks,

Dorrine

You can do it either way. It depends on how much you want to put into it. Simply sewing up the side without taking apart anything is a viable method, but it's not proper. I would never do that unless I was in a pinch and doing a favor for a friend. The proper way is to take apart the armhole seam and waistline, take in the side outer and lining fabric separately, take in the sleeve as necessary, and then sew the underarm and waist seams back. 

Many a flower girl dress is used for only the wedding day and if that is your situation, it might not make sense for you to put in the extra effort to do the alteration properly. A quicky sewing can look just fine if this dress is not going to be used again.

~Lea

Added July 2008

Hi Leanna

Quick question. I have a bridesmaid dress to alter several sizes down. It has a zipper in the back, side seams and dart in the front (dart from top to bottom of bodice) bodice is empire. Do I take in the total amount divided among all three locations or just the seams?? I am concerned that the darts or sides will be off kilter if I just do the back. HELP!!!

Thank you!

Ellen

When altering a dress more than 2 sizes you often have to take it in at every seam to get an ok looking result. Darts do usually need to be reconstructed too. There are no set rules here - what the dress needs to make it look right is what you need to do.

~Lea

added January 2008

Hi Leanna,

I am so happy I stumbled upon your site! You are awesome – thank you for your honest and expert opinions! Gulp…now for my question.

I am 5’5 and used to be a size 4ish, and apparently, I have lost weight to a size 2ish, where I imagine I will stay for my wedding in June since I have not been trying to lose weight and have stayed consistently the size for a few months now.

I originally fell in love with a Pronovias dress (Ipanema), but quickly fell out of love with the price. I then found the same exact dress on eBay from a girl in my area who decided to purchase a different dress for her wedding. I picked it up and it is beautiful and still has the tags, but it says it’s a size 10. I know that Pronovias runs small, and this girl swears she is a size four and that is what the bridal store ordered for her.

Will this be ok to take in, or will it ruin the dress? I’m terrified, please be honest and tell me if I need to start shopping for a new dress or if it can be altered. I have attached pics for you, but I am holding the dress tight in the photos.

Thanks so much, I appreciate your advice! Also, where is your alterations shop located? If you are in the Los Angeles area, I would love to visit your store. If not, thanks for sharing your wisdom!

Sincerely, Eleah

I could fit this dress to you, and have it look great - the REAL question is - Can you find a seamstress in your town who can do the work? You need to make phone calls and ask lots of questions. There is a page on my site that will give you some advice: Finding the Right Alteration Specialist

~Lea

added November 2007

Leanna,

I've spent numerous hours on your website, and I can't tell you how helpful they've been. I do have a question on how to bustle my chosen wedding gown, though. I'd like to know what I want before I talk to a local seamstress, as none come very highly recommended in my area. I'm wearing Alfred Angelo's 1678, and pictures are attached. 

The dress also came significantly larger than I needed (about four sizes!). Do you think that it can be altered down that much? Is this the kind of thing that only a local seamstress could tell me, after investigating the dress her/himself?

Thanks for your time! Alexis

Most dresses can be altered down 2 sizes with little difficulty, but once you go past that things get more complicated. It can usually be done, but you'll need someone with more experience. Yes, it is something that the lady you end up hiring has to answer for if she doesn't feel experienced enough, it's better that you go to someone else.

I have bustled this gown and it's not difficult. A simple Ballroom style looks great. The problem is usually what to do with the sash. The easiest thing is to tie a bow, but bows are out of style this year and most brides want other options. There is one gown on my site that is close to your sash situation. Go to: Sash Solutions

This gown already had a bow so the bride couldn't tie the sash. We both felt it would look silly. So we simply tucked the sash under itself using hooks and eyes and formed a loop that looks ok with the bow.

~Lea

added October 2007

I bought a dress from a bridal store. When I went for my fitting, I was told that they could only take it is so far due to the boning. They pinned the dress, and it seems to fit, but I wanted it taken it a little more. This is when they said they could not take it in any further. The dress has boning which is why I was told the dress could only be taken in so much. Is this normal or should I be looking for another seamstress?

Go to someone else. The only reason why they cannot do this work is they don't know how to do it. Boning can be moved. It's not often easy, but it can be done.

~Lea

added October 2007

Hi Leanna

I was reading the tips on your website and was emailing for some advice.

I went to David's Bridal, back in August, and tried my dress in a size 4. It fit pretty well with the bra and slip minus the neckline which was a little loose and they said they could alter it. I was actually surprised because I usually wear a 2 or 3 in dress size, but they told me bridal gowns usually run "small."

I ordered the dress in white [the one I tried was ivory] in the same size. I just got it two weeks ago and tried it on for the first time today and it feels so big on me! Granted, I don't have the bra or the slip but the hips feel kinda big on me. I did get quite sick and lost some weight but didn't think it was that much of a difference.

My wedding is in March and I am going for my first fitting in January. Do you think I should return the dress, and have it ordered in a size 2 or should I leave the 4 and just have it altered. I have a feeling the 2 might be a little too tight [esp around the waist] but I am also concerned about the extensiveness of the alteration. I am attaching the link of my dress:

http://www.davidsbridal.com/bridal_gowns_detail.jsp?stid=2980&prodgroup=10

I know the neck loop needs to be altered and the dress needs to be hemmed because it's kind of long and I’m not wearing super long heels. The seamstress there quoted me 25 for the neck, 35 for the bustle and possible 85-90 for the hemming.

Any advice, recommendations would be so greatly appreciated.

Thanks so much! Ayla

Wedding gowns are not returnable. You have a lot of time between now and January. Even a little weight change can affect things for a gown that is so exacting like yours. You could easily gain back the weight you lost by then. Since it was from a sickness your body is more inclined to gain it back, so I would not fret about it now. See how things fit in January and do your best to not change your weight from then till March.

~Lea

Thanks for responding so quickly Leanna :)

I was under the impression that sizes could be exchanged but I could have been wrong.

I read on your website that the sample in the store doesn't always fit the way the new dress does; do you think that's what happened in my case?

A few more questions; if the waist needed to be altered; would it be a big problem for this dress and would it cost a lot?

Also, what kind of bustle would you suggest? The dress has an attached catherderal veil [it attaches to the back of the neck loop]. I liked the one you did with the pick up bustle [similar back as my dress]; would that work with my dress?

I'll try not to lose weight :) I actually didn't/don't plan it at all but my body changes according to season or if I get sick and sometimes it's difficult to really know what's going to happen still by faith, I don’t anticipate too many outrageous changes between now and March :)

Have a blessed evening and thanks so much for your response! Ayla

As with all manufactured garments, you can try on 2 of the same dresses in the same size and they will both fit differently. That's why we have people who do alterations. I can't say about the cost of the waist alteration for I don't know what way the seams are constructed, but my estimate for me doing the work would be between $40 and $80. They could charge you differently. I can't see the back of the gown in the picture but it looks like a pick-up bustle would be the one I would try first.

~Lea

added September 2007

Hi Leanna,

I just came across your website a week ago and have been slowly reading through everything very diligently. You have great information. Like so many brides I found the dress of my dreams a couple months ago but have lost weight since placing my order (not purposefully) and am concerned that my dress won't fit when it comes in. From your advice to others, I am a bit reassured, it sounds much easier to take in a dress than out, but I fear the fabric on the bodice is the type that seamstresses find difficult to work with. It's hard to tell from the pictures but the bodice almost looks like it has a layer of "netting” type material on it. I have attached the website link below and am wondering if, in your opinion this can be altered and still look good. 

http://www.maggiesottero.com/dress.aspx?keywordText=victoriana&keywordType=any&page=0&pageSize=8&style=J1082

Thanks for any advice you can provide! Heather

I have had the pleasure of working on many Maggie gowns. They are beautiful and have great construction design. It's not always easy to alter them because of the extra stuff underneath, but that makes them more valuable and fit smoother. It is always better to take in then let out. Depending on where you lost the weight the gown may not be as much of a problem as you are fearing. Wait till the gown comes in and see how it is fitting. You might even gain a little of that weight back by then. The stress of planning a wedding does interesting thing to a bride’s body. 😊

~Lea