Welcome to Leanna Studios

Bridal Bust & Bodice Alteration

Often the bodice is the focal point for a bride's concerns about fit. Boobs come in all shapes and sizes. Woman are used to this, but unfortunately, many wedding gown designers have no clue that it matters. These gowns are made as if all woman had the same shape in the same place. This often makes it a challenge to fit this area. As a general rule - taking in is better than letting out. This is why bridal stores order the gowns for the largest body measurement then take in the other areas. What makes the bust area tricky is that taking in a dart often has the opposite effect. It makes the bust mound greater. With patience, a skilled alteration specialist can overcome the difficulties to get a good fit. 

  • Bodice Too High Under Arms

    added February 2011


    Hi Leanna,


    I was so happy to stumble upon your website! I hope you will be able to answer my question as I am feeling very anxious about my wedding dress. I am 5'2" and short waisted. I feel that the bodice of my wedding dress is just too long and comes up too high on my body. It's very close to my underarms and has me concerned. In your opinion would a seemstress be able to move the bodice of the dress down so it doesn't sit so close under my arms? I have enclosed a picture. Your website is so helpful!!! Thank you! Keep up the good work!


    Alicia


    Hi Alicia, 


    It should be possible to lower the neckline of the bodice to make it more comfortable for your underarm area. I can't tell from the picture if the seam structure on the inside of the bodice will make this a difficult operation but I'm pretty sure it can be done. 


    I hope this helps, 

    ~Lea

  • Puckered Boning

    added June 2007


    Hi, I got the dress of my dreams, it is strapless with a sheer overlay and some beading. It fits almost perfectly, except in the bodice it looks puckered because the lining w/boning is separate from the dress and it seems to be tighter so when the dress is on it is wrinkling the dress under the sheer. I have an appointment with an alterations lady. Do you think this can be fixed?? 


    I'd need to see it on you to give you a good answer, but the real question isn't, "can this be fixed", rather, "does the person I'm going to know how to fix it". If it can be fixed, it's liable to be a tricky operation. 


    ~Lea

  • Halter Style to Strapless

    added February 2010


    Hi Leanna,


    I have purchased my wedding gown that is a halter style wedding gown. While we were deciding on the gown, we discussed with the sales person that I would like to make it into a strapless gown. I will have my first fitting in March/April and would like to be prepared for what options the seamstress will have for me. I understand if completely strapless may not be possible. However I do think that maybe straps, just not halter straps would be possible. I have attached photos of me in the dress with the halter straps tucked into the dress. I will also attach the original picture of the gown on the Maggie Sottero website. 


    http://www.maggiesottero.com/dress.aspx?keywordText=winnie&keywordType=any&page=0&pageSize=15&style=A3290


    Do you think strapless would be possible?

    Do you think I could get a little more lift on my bust. In this photo I have no bra on. 

    Do you think just straps would be possible. 


    Where is your studio located?


    Thanks a bunch, Carly


    Hi Carly,


    I have converted gowns to strapless. The gown needs to have good boning in the bodice or you have to add it to support the strapless design. It looks like your gown has some in there, but maybe not enough. 


    To get lift in your bust you need a bra. Support for you and support of the dress are 2 different things. Adding boning to the dress does not usually help your bustline, it just supports the dress. It may be difficult to find a bra that will work with the plunging neckline but not impossible. Victoria's Secret has options that might work for you.




    If you are going to add straps you might as well just keep the halter. Straps won't support like the halter does. IMO they destroy the mature strapless feel. It's what they do for junior brides maids who aren't old enough to go strapless. Just my opinion.


    I have moved from south east of Cincinnati, Ohio to North of Cincinnati. I'm now in Warren County.


  • Saggy Bodice

    added November 2007


    Hello,


    I have been on your site and very much like your feedback. I am really hoping you can help me. 


    Style of My Dress: Satin split-back A-line with beaded cuff, hem, and inset. It is White with Apple Red as the Trim Color. (Pictures of the 1st gown fitting- Prior to Alterations are attached)


    My issues are as follows:


    (a) Bodice not laying flat across bust line. 

    (b) Bust look saggy, but there is a horizontal crease running along under my bust. 

    (c) If I pull tightly on it this (either upwards or downwards) it disappears. The seamstress says it is because the boning ends under the bust and there is nothing she can do.

    (d) It is a strapless A-line. My problem is that I feel it doesn’t fit me properly in the bodice. It makes my breasts appear pointy. The dress is flush with my skin at the top, then it “peaks” right over the breasts and there is actual space there where it does not touch my skin. Then, it becomes flush with my skin again lower down.


    It's hard to see anything in the pictures but I can give you some advice.

    (a) The red band at the neckline may make it difficult to fix this. It probably does not have seams in it so taking this area in may make the band look odd. I would try to do this under the arm, so any oddness won't show.

    (b&c) Lack of boning will do this, but there is something that can be done. It might be that your lady just doesn't know how. Boning can be added to the front to support the gown. You have not said what kind of undergarments you are using. If you are a C or larger cup, you may need some support for yourself. Both the gown and you need separate support. Ladies smaller than a C can often get away with not wearing a bra, but in most cases a larger cup size needs to be supported separately from the gown's needs. 

    (d) This could have several reasons and fixes. Adding a bra may fix this and the above. Adding a little padding to the gown to fill in the space may fix it, but some brides don't want to do that. The princess seam that runs right through the bustline can be taken in, but it is a very tricky operation that may leave puckering even when done with much care. 


    I can't see this in the pictures, but another reason for all this may be your posture. I say in several places on my site that wedding gowns are designed for ladies to stand with straight posture. The reason is so you will look your best in the gown. Most ladies do not do this in normal life and feel it is odd that designers would purposefully make the gowns so that they have to stand in a manner that is difficult to impossible for them to maintain all through their wedding day. When I try to tell brides that the easy fix is for her to stand with better posture, she will often sulk at me and complain that she just can't do that. It is a very difficult thing to alter a gown to fit a slouching body, not to mention expensive. And besides, no one looks good slouching. I can't tell from your pictures if this is part of your situation or not, but it is a common factor for many brides.


    I hope some of this helps you. 

    ~Lea

  • Tight Bodice results in Too Much Cleavage

    added October 2007


    Hello-


    I am ordering a Pronovias gown. In the picture attached, I am in a size 10. It was on the tight side and it give me more cleavage than what I'd like. My measurements are bust 37 and waist 28.5. The size 12 that was recommended is a 37/28 and the size 14 is a 38/29. Although this was suggested, I want the dress to fully cover my bust line and felt like the 14 would allow for me to do that and to just take it in. I am normally a 32DDD and with the 12, I was afraid that it would just cover me and wouldn't leave any room to remove the cleavage that I do not want to show. Would this drastically change the look of my gown? What size do you suggest?


    Trial 13 is me without a bra and Trial 12s are those with a bustier. Would you recommend wearing one?


    I'm not sure what the ladies at the store are telling you, but a larger size usually won't make the neckline higher. I think you look wonderful in the 10! It's sometimes hard for brides to understand how folks are seeing them because when you look down on your own cleavage you see more than a person standing in front of you does. This style really does give you less coverage than most strapless gowns. Like I said, I think you look simply perfect, but you also have to feel good about how you look. 


    Ordering the 12 probably won't raise the neckline but it might let your breasts settle into the bodice lower than they are in the 10. If the cleavage is still to much, you can raise the whole bodice by taking in the waistline at the side seam a little lower than it is now. BUT - this may also push the breast flesh up a little more and create more cleavage. Am I making sense?


    Another common problem with the larger sizes is that the neckline gapes above the bustline. This can be fixed at the side or princess seams, but it's not always easy. It's best to solve this problem by taking in the princess seam that runs directly over the bustline, but I doubt your design will allow that. SO - - - I would encourage you to get the 10. Did I say I love the pictures of you in the 10?


    You do not need the bustier, but if it feels good do it. Many C and larger ladies have trouble fitting into a bustier well. The designers of them just don't seem to know how to accommodate the situation. 


    Thanks so much for your reply. I'll have to order the 12 because with the 10, I had to take short breaths and the boning was digging...very uncomfortable. I actually ordered it in a 14 yesterday, but I'll see if they can change that for me. Is there a way to minimize the cleavage? Can the alter the very top to lay down instead of my breasts rising up and gaping?


    For a gapping neckline I take in the princess seams. If I remember correctly, this would be very difficult and complicated for your gown because of the way the bodice is designed, but not impossible. You will need a seamstress either very experienced or very brave to tackle such an operation. It might not have the result you are looking for, but it will draw the fabric of the neckline closer to your body. It will not move it higher to cover more cleavage. 


    About the only thing I can think of is to buy lace that matches the lace at the top of your bodice and add it to the neckline to raise it. 

    ~Lea

  • Tape in a Modesty Panel?

    added August 2007


    Hi Leanna,

    I bought this dress for really cheap at J-crew to wear at my wedding

    http://www.jcrew.com/catalog/product.jhtml?id=prod72366387&catId=cat90226 

    it is going to be a very simple wedding with a very short ceremony.

    I like the dress. it actually is little long on me (which is alright) and need to do something about my tummy (tips appreciated). My biggest problem is the cleavage. I am a B cup and it kind of feels not appropriate to show that much at a wedding. 

    is there any way i can conceal it. I was thinking i can buy some very high quality lace, cut a little triangle and with tailors two sided tape attach it to the V..Will it look alright? Do you have any other ideas? Professional opinion, please 

    Thank you very much.

    Orgul


    What you are thinking of doing is typically called a modesty panel. You can certainly do this but do not tape it in, sew it in. You would be very embarrassed if the tape lost its sticky in the middle of your ceremony. 


    This is a valid solution to your question, but personally, I think modesty panels look cheap. A short jacket would look much better. The best solution would be to buy a dress that already has a neckline that is more appropriate to your situation. 

    ~Lea


  • Good Design for Small Bust?

    added May 2011


    Hi,


    I have my heart set on a Mori Lee 2505 even though I am a pear shape - this one seems not to make my hips look big due to the flaring skirt.


    I have 41 inch hips and have been advised to order the 10. I tried on the 8 and it looked great but was very tight around the hips when I was sitting. My breast measurements are best suited to a 6!


    I am wondering if it is ever impossible to make small breasts fit a wedding dress such as this? Can padding look fake or can the cup be made smaller before it is padded? Everyone knows that I don't have much up top - I don't want to look ridiculous!


    Apparently it is difficult to let out the seams in this material as it is very light and silky. It has a firm underlayer as well, to hold everything in.


    Thanks in advance,

    Deanne


    Hi Deanna, 


    I've looked at a picture of Mori Lee 2505 and think it can look good on a small busted woman. You may like to add some padding to the cups, just don't add so much that you look silly. I don't think you can get away with not taking in the bust area a little, but that plus a little padding can give you just the right, balanced look. 

    ~Lea


  • Bust is Too Small

    added May 2011


    Hi Leanna,


    I just picked up my wedding dress from the store it was ordered from, and I am quite worried as the bust is too small. We ordered the dress based on my largest measurement, my hips, and while there is enough fabric to mostly cover my bust, the cups in the dress are too small. I am a 38 H cup. The dress is strapless, has boning, and extensive beadwork on the bodice. I was wondering if there is any way you can think of that this can be altered to fit better? 


    I have not taken it to be altered yet, and I am very worried about this.


    Mandi


    Hi Mandi,


    Most gowns have at least an inch that can be released from each side seam. And if there are princess seams, or often darts, there may be much more that can he done. I can't tell without looking inside the gown but the alterationist you take the gown to should be able to look inside and tell you how much can be let out of the seams. 


    If you can zip the dress now and it's just too snug after zipping, this should be enough to make it fit better. If you can't zip the dress at all then you may need to have fabric pieces sewn into the seams to make more space. There are many other options that the lady you take the dress to may be able to offer depending on her experience and skill. One of my favorites is adding lacings where the zipper is. That gives you lots of options for tightening or loosening the bodice.

    ~Lea


  • Bodice Too Long

    added August 2010


    Hello,


    I found your website and it was so much help! I had a question for you and I hope you don't mind me asking. Attached is the dress I purchased and I will be getting it altered soon. They mentioned the bunches at the waist are caused by my short torso and they could shorten it so it will lay flat. What I wanted to ask is when they shorten the torso will that also be shortening the length, meaning they will shorten the torso and hem at the same time? Also the dress is supposed to be somewhat fit and flarish or trumpet shaped and I believe if they take the length from the waist - and leave the bottom alone that will help this affect (the bottom has tooling underneath to flare it our some). Is that correct or will it still appear A-line (which won't kill me, but I'm curious)


    Thank you so much for your website!!! Lisa


    Hi Lisa,


    Yes, if they took up the hem in the waist area the whole skirt comes up evenly making the hem shorter. But the flair would also raise and add more fullness at the waist seam and would not create a trumpet look. It would make the A line more pronounced and possibly mess up the nice flatness in your hip area. 


    Looking at your pictures I see that the front wrinkles are not in the back also. I believe that if they do open the front waist seam and raise the skirt it will only smooth out the stomach area and not affect the hem. 


    To get the trumpet skirt look you mentioned the seams of the skirt would need to be taken in at the hip and thigh area. I think for your gown this will have to be done on the side and front princess seams to get a nice symmetrical trumpet. It's a lot of work and may cost more than you wish to spend since you said the A line is ok. 

    ~Lea


  • Darts at bustline not attractive

    added August 2010


    Dear Leanna,


    I've just had a fitting appointment with a seamstress and wondered if I could ask your opinion on an issue. I'm wearing a strapless dress with a good boning structure. My bust is a 32DD and I have a small waist. So they ordrered a dress to fit my bust and have taken it in at the waist. However, there is a gap between the dress around the bust and my skin, which doesn't look good from the side, and people who are taller than me will be able to see down the dress! 


    I asked the seamstress if she could do something about the gap, and she said she could put in a couple of darts at the side of the bust to take it in a bit. However, when she did that, I got bad spill over which didn't look very attractive at all.


    The only two options it seems I have are to have a gap between the dress and my skin around the bust area, or to have the bust so tight that it sits closer to my chest but makes me spill over the dress.


    Can you think of anything that I could do to solve this problem? 


    I should add that i'm already using a modesty bone to try and bring the dress closer to my skin.


    I've looked into minimising strapless bras but either there aren't any, or they don't come in my size (the manufacturers obviously don't think i'm busty enough to merit a minimiser!).


    I'd be very grateful to hear what you think.


    Thank you! Sabina


    Hi Sabina,


    For ladies over a D bust, bridal fitting is not easy in the bust area. A gap at the neckline is common. I will try to fix this situation first at the princess seam if there is one. I have created darts when there is no princess seam to use. It's hard to say without seeing you in the dress, but this should have fixed the problem. I would guess she did too much and created the tightness that you are not liking. There should be a way to adjust this without creating spillage. 


    Strapless necklines are supposed to lay smoothly on the skin, not tight or gapping. Often brides, who have never worn a strapless gown, think they have a gap because they are looking down at their cleavage and don't see the perspective of the guest's at the wedding. I have often had a bride say exactly what you have when her neckline is perfectly correct. I can't say this is your situation without seeing you in the dress, but it is common for a bride to feel this way when her neckline is actually fine.


    Depending on the placement of the neckline top seam, it may be the shape of your bust that is causing the gap. Instead of the neckline laying straight, the breast curve can cause the fabric to continue curving across the cleavage. For this situation I have sewn bridal wire inside the neckline seam so the curve of the neckline can be held into place against the skin by the wire, forcing the front to lay straight across the neck instead of curving with the swell of the breast. Maybe that's what you need.


    I hope this helps!

  • Bride ordered an 8 instead of the advised 10

    added June 2010


    Hi Leanna,

    I just recently purchases and recieved my wedding dress. It is a Mikaella 1409 and I absolutely love it!! In the store I tried on a size 10 and it was a little roomy. This was in Jan. and I have lost weight since then so I ordered a size 8. The dress is almost perfect but is really snug at the top, the very top won't zip and it makes my waist poke out a little at the hip area...if I don't lose weight by my wedding (9 months from now) it will need to be let out some in order for it to zip all the way, be comfortable, and fit properly. Will it be a difficult task to let out some since the top part is all ruching? I have attached a picture of the dress.


    Thank you so much,

    Brittney


    Hi Brittney, 


    Most gowns have a little in the seams that can be let out, but not all fabric will look good when it is let out. The finer the fabric, the more likely it is to show a mark of the originally seam's stitching when it is let out. I have worked on ruched gowns that let out without problems, but I can't guarantee yours can be because I can't see what is in the seams. You need to take the gown to someone who can look inside to give you better answers. 

    ~Lea


    Aside - 

    This is an example of why I advise brides to lose any weight they wish before ordering.  Not only is it not a sure thing you will loose enough, but your body gets to choose where it looses the inches. The chest area is usually not a choise it makes. 

  • Let out the bodice or add a strapless bra?

    added April 2010


    Hi Leanna! It is 4 weeks until my wedding and my dress fits me perfectly everywhere but the bust. It is too tight and is squishing my breasts in. The seamstress believes she can take it out another 2 inches and that should be able to fix it. But Im not quite sure. I feel as if the cups inside the dress are just too small for my size. Is there anything I can do to fix this?! please help! Here is a link to my dress http://www.cbslimited.com/wedding-allure-8514.htm

    Jasmin


    Hi Jasmin,


    If the bra cups are just tacked to the inside of the dress, they might be easilly removed woith out disturbing the beading. Two inches is a lot of space and it may be too much. I can't tell without seeing you in the dress. 


    When is your next fitting?


    Thanks for your quick response Leanna! my next fitting is june 16th and my date is june 26th, which is what is making me nervous! I hope the two inches is enough if it is too much shell take it back in the during the same dress fitting and have me come back a few hours later. I did check to see if the cups could be replaced and she was unable to do so without ruining the front of the dress. The dress is a size 4 which the chart says measures 33 inches in the bust and I believe my measurements are 35.5 inches around my back and my bra size is 34 D. So it should be ok around the back (I hope!) the only thing that worries me is that the smaller cups will be a problem.


    Your bust measures 35.5 and they ordered a dress that measures 33? They should have ordered an 8 or 10. With your D size cups a size 4 is definitely not advisable for the reason you now find yourself in. Bridal stores usually have a policy that gowns are ordered to fit the largest measurement on your body and the smaller areas are taken in to fit. The larger size would have had bra cups sizing that was more appropriate for your figure needs. The waist and hip areas are always much easier to alter than the bustline. With your gown having the heavily beaded bodice it gives great complications for bust adjustments. 


    You did not mention about the zipping. If you can zip the gown it should feel much better with the 2 inch addition. Since you are 2 inches off the measurements it should fit good. The cup size will not change, so I can't say you will be totally happy, but it will be much better. No one at your wedding will be able to notice that the cup size is off a tiny bit. 


    Well thanks again for the quick response Leanna! I was pretty sure that there was not much I could do at this point. But hopefully it wont be too noticeable. I just have one last question, do you think if I buy a strapless bra that will help? Or will that just make things worse?


    It could help and it could make things worse, depends on the bra. Adding the bulk of the bra fabric and boning in the already tight bodice can make matters worse (i.e. Squeeze you in more). But if the bra is very thin and still gives you good support, it might help by making you feel better. Feeling better helps you look better. 

    ~Lea

  • Can a second-hand dress be let out?

    added April 2010


    Hi Leanna, 


    Thanks so much for putting up the Q&A section on your site! It's been a fun read + I feel much better knowing a little more about the alteration process as I'm looking for wedding dresses.


    My question has to do with a dress I found recently that I really love. The problem is that the dress is a little tight around the bust area. The girl who's selling the dress said that she had the bust taken in a little for her wedding. Do you think it's possible that there is still some excess fabric available on the dress that would allow it to be taken out again... or do you think they would have trimmed it in the first alteration? If it was trimmed, do you think that it would be difficult to let out the bust about an inch on this dress? 


    Go forward to the pictures of Dress #3 (La Sposa "Fiordo"):


    http://www.strangefishes.com/dresses0401/index.html


    ** there should be 7 total pictures of this dress


    If the alteration on the bust is possible, do you know what a reasonable price would be for this type of work? Also, how soon before the wedding should a dress usually be sent in for alterations?


    Thanks!

    Susie 


    Hi Susie,


    It's my policy to not cut an fabric in a bridal alteration unless it is absolutely necessary. Many follow this policy but some may not. If your gown was altered without cutting the seam allowance it should be simple to let it back out. If it is trimmed, I have no way of knowing how much they trimmed it. It should be a simple thing to look inside the dress and see if it was trimmed or not. You can usually go to the hem and look in between the layers to see the side seams. Some hems are sewn together at the bottom and you have to open a seam in the lining to get inside to see the side seams. 


    I normally like to see brides for the first time 8 to 10 weeks before the wedding with the goal that the dress will be finished 2 weeks before the wedding. This works well for the bride usually has many things she has to attend to right before the wedding and worrying about. Her gown is one I like to eliminate. This timing can very depending on what the gown needs but works well for most situations. If the side seams are the only thing you need done than you don't need so much time, but this also depends on the schedule of the person you get to agree to do the work. You have plenty of time between now and November so you should not have any trouble getting this fixed.


    I think that answers all your questions. Good luck with your gown.

    ~Lea

  • I want the Bust to hug me better

    added January 2010


    Hi Leanna, 


    I have been worried about my dress recently and the shop I've bought it from just said 'thats how it is' the bit I'm worried about is under the bust line. It doesn't go under my bust it just goes down which because I'm only 5"2 tall I think it makes me look dumpy. Are they right, is there nothing that can be done?


    I've attached a photo (this was before any alterations of length)


    Many thanks if you can help me out you seem to know so much!


    Lisa


    Let me see if I understand what your concerned about. You would like the bodice to show more of your shape by hugging you in the bust area better? I think that can be better, but because of the drape it might not hug as much as you are wanting. In your picture it looks like the side seam bulges a tiny bit in the area you are questioning. I would try to take the bodice in at that seam and see if you like the fit better. It will feel better but the over drape might not let it look as snug as you are wishing. 


    The other reason why it is fitting you this way is that it is designed for a 5' 6" body. Skirt length is not the only difference in the way the dresses are proportioned. The bodice is probably too long for your torso. Changing this on gowns that don't have a waistline seam is very difficult. Taking in the side seam to change the waist level is about the only thing that can be done. 


    If you can convince them that you want the side taken in that should make you feel better. It's not easy to talk some alteration people into doing a job she doesn't think needs doing. They don't respond well to customers thinking they know more than they do about sewing. But in this case, you just might know a lot more than this alteration professional. 


    Your other option is wait till the hem is done and then take the gown to someone who is more willing to listen to the bride's wishes. 


    I hope this helps, 

    ~Lea


    Hi Leanna, 


    Thank you so much for taking the time to offer your opinion, it great having someone who can offer impartial advise and knows what they are talking about! 


    Yes, I am hoping for the bodice to 'hug' me slightly more so I'll suggest taking it in at the sides a little but I also think its the boning that made it stick out a bit? Can that be curved at all? I found that nearly all the dresses were made for taller women so had the same problem with all the dresses I tried, hopefully one day they make petite range dresses :) 


    I'll book another fitting sooner rather than later to see if they'll take it in and whether the drape still causes an issue as I have contemplating buying another dress as I was so worried it looks awful.


    Thanks again


    Hi Lisa,


    It's not usually the boning. And yes, you are right about the dresses not proportioned for petite figures. The bridal industry is making great strides in designing for pregnancy, but they are yet to address the petite lady's needs. 


    Part of the problem is a petite lady has a shorter torso. The boning is doing the job it is supposed to do by pushing up from the waist, but the waist is just set too high for your petit figure. Messing with the boning only makes matters worse. In some cases the side seams can be let out in the hip area so the whole bodice drops and fits into place. I'd need to see the inside of the seams but I seriously doubt this is an option for your gown. You can test this while you are in the fitting room. Put on the gown but don't zip it. Have a friend hold the gown closed in the back but loose just above your butt. If it fits better than your torso is shorter than the dress. 


    If the sides seams can't be let out in the hip area then there's not much you can do. That's why I suggested to take in the waist area. That works in many cases. 


    I don't think you look dumpy at all. I think what you are feeling is big-white-dress-overwhelming-me more than dumpiness. It is a lot of dress for any woman and you being shorter are feeling it more. 


    I hope I haven't confused you totally, 

    ~Lea


  • Good candidate for a Lace-up Conversion

    added October 2009


    Hi Leanna, I was reading all the posts on your website and you gave some very good advice; I'm in desperate need of that now. 


    I was looking for a specific gown and found it online for a reasonable price. I'm usually a size 10/12 and the gown is a size 14. I (measured under the arm around the back and across the fullest part of the breast).


    I checked to see how much of a seam there is on the back zipper and I was surprised there's less than 1/4" on each side.


    My quesiton is this.....is there anyway to make it a tad bigger so I can zipper it all the way up???? I really love the dress (I've attached photos). I was thinking maybe I could have the entire zipper removed and have a tie back instead; would you recommend that?


    Any advice you can give to help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you so much for your time.


    Sincerely,

    Bobbi 


    Hi Bobbi,


    When I am asked to make a gown larger I look at the side seams first. There is normally nothing at the zipper in most gowns, but many will have up to 1" that can be let out in a side seam. 


    This dress would be a good candidate for a lace-up back conversion.

    ~Lea

  • My bust darts are too pointy

    added September 2009


    Hi leanna


    I have written to you before concerning alterations to my bridal gown. At the time I was a dialysis patient with an ugly catheter on the right side of my chest. Well, thank God I no longer have that problem, I received a Kidney Transplant on April 19, 2009 and it's working great. 


    I already had my alterations done but, I didn't quite like the finish on the bust line. I purchased a Goddess Strapless A-line Bra size 36FF. Because, I have large breast, I asked the seamstress to take any extra material and, any appliques from the dress to create a more modest look on the top. She did create something that looked like it was part of the dress. However, it bunched up at the top making it look like a huge gap and, not fitting right. She suggested darts and, although the dress is beautiful the bust line looks like two pointed darts. 


    What can I do to make my dress look more polished? Is there anyway they can insert sew in bra cups that size to prevent the bunching of the fabric?


    My wedding is only weeks away on Sunday September 20th, 2009


    Thanks, Iliana 


    Hi Iliana 


    I wish I could help you but I need to see you in the dress to give you any kind of useful advice. Bra cups are sometimes a help but I doubt you can find them in FF size. If you are willing to sacrifice a bra that fits you well, it can be sewn to the inside of the gown but I can't say this will fix the situation. 


    Pointy darts can be resewn tapering the pointy end into a curve instead of a sharp point. 

    ~Lea


  • How to get rid of Lump under my Bustline

    added September 2009


    Hi my name is Melissa I am going to be in my cousin's wedding in 3 days. I just bought a bridal corset when I tried on my corset it fits great, the problem is it has a crease under the breast part of the corset is there anyway to get the crease out? I have looked everywhere for a answer to this question I really need some help fast I don't want to have a big bump there on the day of the wedding. I really don't know what to do.


    Thank You,

    Melissa


    Hi Melissa,


    Long line bras don't normally support a bust size larger than a C. If this is your problem, you need to get an under garment that will support your bust better. 

    ~Lea


  • Waist area bunching in back

    added August 2009


    I'm altering a gown that fits almost perfectly and it needs to be done in 2 days! The bride is a very hourglass figure. The bagginess is in the back. The neck to the shoulder blades is fine and from the waist to the hip is fine, but the curvy area in the middle is too big! It's all princess lines. Will taking in the middle of the princess lines on either side of the zipper fix this? I don't want to change the zipper line at all because it fits fine at the top and at the bottom.


    Thanks, Rebecca


    Hi Rebecca,


    That depends. Does she have a flat butt? If you can pin the princess seams and that looks good, you can do it there. I try to avoid changing the zipper seam because it often creates more problems than it solves.


    Depending on how the wrinkles on her butt are facing it might mean the dress is actually too tight in this area, or she has a longer butt than the average bride. This situation needs to have the side seams let out in the hip area to drop that section of the dress down so it lays smooth over her middle.


    If you do decided to try the princess seam, don't trim anything until you try the dress back on your bride to be sure it looks good.

    ~Lea


  • Bustline sort of "floats" off of my chest

    added May 2009


    Hi Leanna,


    You do hvae a wonderful website that has seemed to help many brides for at ease. I wanted some alteration advice from you. I have Maggie Sotero gown seen here- http://www.maggiesottero.com/dress.aspx?keywordText=amy&keywordType=any&page=0&pageSize=12&style=V7022


    When I initially tried it on it was too big, but they ordered it in my size (a 4) and in petite to help with the length. I was fairly upset after my first fitting because I was under the impression that the smaller size would fix some of the issues I had with it. Attached are two pics from my first fitting.


    I want to know if I would be able to shorten the torso some. I am only 5 feet tall and I am wearing shoes in this pic, but I am wearing low heels (maybe like 1.5-2 inches). I just feel like the dress is losing the effect of the flowing/flared part because she has to hem like 4 in off she said. I thought if the torso was shortened, the flare part would start higher up like on the model picture (I know you can't always go by a model). But do you get what I mean? I though when the dress was in my size and petite that this would be fixed but I guess I forget how short i am!


    The other issue is that the bustline sort of "floats" off of my chest. The line under the bust does not touch my skin because the dress is backless, so my breasts so sort of jsut hanging in there. She was going to sew in bra cups, but I didn't think this was going to help so I am going to find a backless strapless and I hope it fills it out more. But do you have any suggetions with how I could get the bust to lay flatter against me? The seamstress just didn't seem ti understand what I was talking about. She said the only thing that could be done was to take the back in, which I though was sort of unreasonable. Is the dress too intricate to take the cups in?


    I hope that everything I said makes sense and I hope that you can offer me some guidance! I am really worried now and told the seamtress not to touch the dress until I go back in to get the alterations just right. I need to go back in better prepared this time. Thank you!


    Amanda


    I do get what you are saying. You have two issues that I'll try to answer one by one.


    First - it is a very involved job to shorten the torso for this style of design. If you try to raise the middle at the seam under the bustline you throw off everything. The hips, waist and zipper area will all need to be reshaped creating a lot of work that your seamstress my not know how to do. BUT - there seems to be a seam around your knee area where the bottom flounce might be able to be raised. I'd need to see this from inside the dress, but I have done this type of alteration before to hem a dress and though it's more difficult than hemming at the bottom, it's not any where near as hard as raising it at the empire seam. 


    Second - the floating bust. Due to the plunging back there is just no support to the front in the design. A long line bra should help to get your bustline looking better but it can't do much for the dress. You can take in the back to help this, but that will change the plunging line of the back to the point that you might no longer like it. There is a type of tape you can get to stick the front of the dress to your skin but I don't think that will get the look and feel you are going for. The model in the picture you sent is doing a couple of things to look so good. She is pushing her boobs into the front of the dress and arching her back a little. Not so much that it looks funny though. I tell my brides that these dresses are designed to make you look your best, but to accomplish that you need to learn how to stand with the posture the dress needs. Think of it as squeezing your shoulder blades together. This automatically sets your bustline in a flattering way. I know this feels really odd, but once you try it, I'm sure you will start seeing this dress in a different light.


    ~Lea

  • Stomach/Bustline fitting

    added January 2008


    Dear Leanna,


    I just got engaged and I'm VERY grateful to have found your site! I have at least 16 months to find a dress I liked, and have it altered, so I am not in a rush and I'm prepared to find a very good seamstress and pay plenty for my alterations, which I know I'll have to do...


    The issue is that I'm 5'3" and around 260lbs. This is all well and fine enough for me and my fiancé, but I have terribly difficult to work with proportions. My bust is approximately 58 inches with a band size off 44 [with E or F cups] but my waist is ALSO 58-60 inches.


    Websites keep telling me that an A-line dress will look great on me, but I've had lots of difficulty with them fitting. The only dresses that fit me well are empire, but I'm really struggling to find some.


    Is there any way to take an A-line or Princess styled dress and make it fit my awkward proportions? Also, I know to buy the dress for my stomach size, but do I need to be really concerned about getting the bust to fit? I normally wear a size 24 and the literature says that a size larger or two would suffice, but according to size charts, I seemingly often need a size 32... Should I trust them? Lastly, should I start considering splurging for a custom-made dress from a seamstress or such drastic measures aren't so necessary.


    Thank you so much! Kimmi


    You are going to have a very hard time getting the bust to fit when you order for the stomach measurement. It is very hard to alter the bust area and have it look good. I would advise you to go with the custom job if you have a seamstress in your town that will do it. It will probably cost about as much as buying a dress and paying the hefty alteration fees but with less stress.


    ~Lea

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