Bridal Gown Lace-up Back Conversion

added March 2008

Hi Leanna, I am currently making a grad dress for a girl and she is requesting some alterations to the design of the pattern. I have read about the lace up back on your site (very helpful!) but have a few more questions.

She is requesting a lace up back from the waist up with eyelets (or grommets) instead of loops. I am concerned about the strength of the fabric so the eyelets aren't creating pulls in the fabric itself (or puckers). Oh yes - the dress is taffeta. I have tried out some grommets on scrap and it seems I will require the fabric, interlining, interfacing and lining to have enough strength for this. That seems excessive. Should I run some boning along the grommets to keep them from pulling instead, or perhaps using all layers in the back panels only? 

She really has her heart set on these grommets. Should I try to dissuade her? I'm worried if I do it wrong the stress of wearing it all day will cause them to tear out. Thanks for the time you take to help all of us!

Priscilla

You need to tell her your concerns clearly and so that she understands the risk she is taking. She will not want to listen and will ask you to do this anyway, but you need to make sure she understands the situation she is creating. When she says to do it anyway, charge her any extra you need to and make it clear that she has asked for this extra charge. 

I would add boning to both the inside and outside areas of the grommets and interline the taffeta. This is what you are charging extra for - AND make sure she knows this will NOT guarantee that the taffeta will not tear. It most likely will no matter what you do. She will tie this dress way too tight and the act of dancing will make a mess of it. This is not your fault. She is asking for something really silly, but she is a teen that doesn't know any better. 

~Lea

added February 2007

Hi,

I was wondering if it is difficult to get a seamstress to alter the back of my wedding dress to a tie-up corset style because I love the dress, but I have always dreamed of one that has a corset back which is currently not the situation.

Thanks, Katherine

It's not ultra difficult, but there are some things you need to think about.

Does the gown bodice fit you well now? - I usually do this type of alteration for ladies whose gowns are much too small. It's better than trying to sew inserts into the seams to make the dress larger. So, if your gown fit fine you will be needing to make room for the lacing area. If there is much decoration in the back, making space in the zipper area might mean losing some of it. You might be able to take in the side seams to make the space without destroying any design elements.

If you want one, you will need to have fabric for the modesty panel. Some brides have a full panel under the whole area, and some have it just for the waist down, so skin shows between the lacings on the back. It depends on if you have to wear a bra or if you can go without one.

~Lea

added October 2007

Hi Leanna,

Thank you for your informative website! I have a quick question about changing corset lacing. I have a Maggie Sottero dress with a corset back. The lacing that came with the dress is about 3/8" or so, but I have seen some Sottero dresses with thicker lacing (3/4" maybe?) and I like that look better. My dress also does not have a modesty panel, and I would prefer the thicker lacing to show less skin.

Here's a photo of the type of lacing I would like:

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y208/bengc1/bride12/lot204_3093i.jpg

I contemplated buying ribbon from the craft store but worry it won't be stiff enough and that it might bunch up and not lay flat. Any suggestions?

Thanks, Jen

Any lacing will bunch if you don't take the time to thread it carefully. I have used ribbon often. It's not as stiff as fabric, but it can look just like the picture you sent if you thread it carefully. You can also make a modesty panel. They aren't part of the dress back anyway. They are just tacked on one side. 

~Lea

added September 2007

Hello,

Thanks for all the great tips on your site. I have found several lovely dresses that I am deciding between, but these are all zip-back dresses and I had hoped to find a lace-up/corset back dress as I am worried about having a perfect fit on the day. I do not diet (and I love the advice you give about that), but I have always had fluctuating weight/body fat and I am worried that with a zip-up back, then unless I have the final fitting the day before I would not be sure of having a perfect fit for my dress. I may have a destination wedding so it is not really an option for me to have a fitting right before the wedding, to say nothing of the additional stress that would cause everyone. 

I've seen your photos of too-small gowns that have been converted to make them fit, but do you find it is possible to convert a gown that already fits perfectly into a lace-up back in order to secure a great fit on the day? Or do you find that altering a gown in this way doesn't necessarily improve the fit? I'm wondering whether if the gown already fits perfectly, it might compromise the structure of the gown to make such a change. 

Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks, Nicole

To have the lacings you need to make room for them. So, if a gown already fits well, some space needs to be removed from the back to accommodate the lacings. If there is decoration right up next to the zipper some of it will be lost. You may not like the lose of lace flowers and beading and the pattern might be interrupted in a funny way. 

I have worked with brides who have trouble with weight fluctuations, but I have never had one with a one-day flux problem. The lacings do give you more flexibility in the fit and they are pretty too. It makes perfect sense to me that you are thinking this way. It would be so much easier if you keep looking for a gown that is already designed for lacings. Keep in mind the elements of the gowns you have found and keep looking. I am sure you will find one. 

~Lea

added July 2007

Leanna,

I really love your site and the corset information has been a big help to me.

I made my own gown. Now my sewing skills are not fabulous, but they are apparently good enough (GO ME!). I was very nervous to attempt this without my mom here to help (she was a fabulous seamstress) but I know she was here guiding my hands.

I am nearing 80% completion and finishing fast. My question is this, I am attaching a picture of my gown. I suck at zippers! I was considering a corset style back because it would help eliminate some of the smaller alterations I might have to make. Will it work on this gown? I made some changes to the gown. I did not add the lace panel at the waist, instead I am adding a ribbon in my wedding colour (navy blue) which will form a V from the front to the back, attaching just under the bust in the front down to the bottom of where the butt bouquet is in the back (this is where I would have the corset stop).

Thank you, April

Most corset backs have been in strapless gowns but I see no reason why you can't do one here. I think it will look very pretty. 

~Lea