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Leah's Notions - "Hand Stitching"

An article written for the January 1997 issue of Tangled Threads


I used to hate hand work. If it couldn't be done on the machine I wasn't interested in doing it. I would go out of my way to figure out how to do hand operations on the machine whenever possible, like sewing on buttons. This also never made sense to me since I love needle point, cross stitch, knitting and crocheting.


But lately I find that I may be changing my attitude. I'm in the middle of a very tedious project that I decided needed to be done mostly by hand. I've always known that there are just some things that turn out better when done by hand, I simply avoided them. So here I am stuck in a mess of hand work.


During this project, I have discovered some things about hand work that I can appreciate. First off, I swear it lowers your blood pressure. It forces you to sit in a quiet way and concentrate. It works just like patting an animal.


Second, you can do it anywhere. You don't have to feel confined to the sewing room. Hopefully you can place yourself on a comfy couch in a well lit corner either in silence or with music or the TV. Try sitting on your front porch on a fine day, or maybe you'd prefer parking yourself in the center of a shopping mall quietly stitching in one of those nice rest areas while all the hustle and bustle of people go by. Or, my favorite, take it with you to thein-law's or any other evening you need to spend with people you have trouble conversing with. It will either give you an excuse for not joining in the conversation, or become a topic you can talk about freely.


Thirdly, it promotes family unity. Again, you don't have to be isolated in your sewing room when you have handwork you can do in the family room. And if you believe in monitoring you child's TV viewing, but don't care for the programs they (or your husband) watch, handwork will help you endure it.

I wish you all a happy and healthy New Year filled with new experiences that you will find merits in also.


Leah's Notions - "Metal Rulers"

An article written for the May 1996 issue of Tangled Threads


Do you use those 6" metal sewing & knitting gauge with the little blue or red plastic slid ? I do and I do so much that they break often. Last time I busted one a thought occurred to me as I want to toss it out. I took off the plastic slide and put it into another gauge. It increases the usefulness of this already handy gadget. Like when your customer has sleeves that need to be shortened two lengths. You can now set the gauge for both. Or you can set the red slid for the amount to sew and the blue slide the amount to cut off. I'm finding more uses all the time.


At the moment I have only one of these double slide gauges. But it's become so valuable to me that I'm tempted to break another one so I can have two.


Nah, I'm too frugal for that.


Our Visitors ask Questions


  • Crease Removal

    added Auguat 2005


    I recently had 5 pair of pants hemmed with a cuff by a tailor. The original hem crease shows on my new cuffs. Is it possible to get this crease out? Or are my pants ruined? Help….


    Try soaking a pressing cloth with water and white vinegar. Steam press the hem with the cloth. It will smell like salad for a bit but that will go away and so should the crease. If the crease is very old and had been repressed many times, the fabric might be worn from the pressing process and there's no hope to remove the crease. Your tailor should have been able to tell you this before the work was done.  


    ~Lea

  • Hem Pinning Gadget

    added January 2004


    Hi there


    I saw on your site that you use a pin type hem marker. I'm searching for one of those. Do you know of a source? I currently work as an alterations seamstress for a bridal shop and I'd like to expand my work to my home and take on private clients so this is definitely something I need to have. Thanks for any help you might be able to offer.


    Linda


    I got mine from the local JoAnn's. Dritz makes them and you should be able to find them anywhere. 


    ~Lea

  • Fixing Mistakes

    added June 2003


    I made an off the shoulder dress and I cut the neckline down too low. Is there anyway to fix this without cutting the entire dress over and raising the neckline.... 


    Thanks! 


    When you make a mistake like this it is best to make a bigger than you need fix. If you try to fix a small mistake like this with a little patch it will stick out like a sore thumb, but if you make a bigger fix it looks like you designed the fix to be there in the first place. For instance, can you cut the neckline even further until it reaches the bust and then add a piece of fabric (original or contracting) from the bust up to where you wanted the neckline to be? You can even carry it around the shoulders to the back. You could also add a portrait collar over a patch to bring the neckline up to normal.


    Not seeing the dress design makes it hard for me to be more specific with suggestions. Hope this helps.


    ~Lea

  • Too many Pleats

    added March 2003


    I would like to alter the waist from a pair of dress pants that have 3 pleats at the waist, taking the pleats away or maintaining only one. The pants have sliding pockets at side. I would appreciate a suggestion 'cause I don't know where to start...help!!!! I don't need the pockets. Do I have to adjust the side seams also? Thank you VERY much. Atena 


    Hi Atena,


    It's really hard to give you any advice not being able to see the pants. Why are there 3 pleats and not 4? I've never seen a pant with 3 and I don't think it will look good with only one. And what are sliding pockets? What is it that slides? Is there a waistband? Are you making this bigger or smaller? I really need to see the pants on your body to tell you how to alter them. There are so many different things that can be done it's hard to guess at what you need to do. 


    Hi, Leanna! Sorry I did a boo-boo. Better, I'll start again.: 


    I have a pair of pants with 3 front pleats in each side, 6 in total. I would like to alter the pants, taking away 2 pleats from each side.( 4 in total ) The pants have 2 side pockets and a waistband. I would like to know what to do with the extra material from the 4 pleats. The waist doesn't need to be altered. Could I transform the pleats in darts or I have to move the entire front panels toward the hips and how.. I 'll appreciate very much your help. Hoping you understand my explanation I thank you. Atena 


    I am assuming you don't like all that fabric at your hip area and you are trying to get a closer fit.  Replacing a pleat with a dart might get you what you want, but you might not like a seam sitting right on your hip area either. Plus, it will need to be sewn quite far down the leg to contain all the pleat fabric.


    There's a difference in altering clothing for fit and changing a design element. Changing design elements are sometimes not possible or so involved that it's not worth doing. That's where you are. I would not attempt to do what you are proposing. It involves taking almost every seam on the pant apart, re-cutting the front and part of the back pieces and then reassembling the pant. That's too much work in my opinion. For the time you spend, it's cheaper to buy a new pair of pants.


    ~Lea


  • Preshrinking Fabric

    added November 2002


    I am making a pair of pants/jeans out of 100% cotton canvas. How should I per-shrink the fabric? Will washing in hot and tumble drying do it?


    It's recommended that you launder the fabric as you plan to launder the garment once it is made. It's more the way you dry that shrinks things than the washing, so if you dry in hot, you will get more shrinkage than if you were to only wash in hot and hang to dry. The same advice goes for if you were to purchase the pants and only be hemming them.


    Personally, I don't see that it's necessary to preshrink any fabric more than necessary, so if you don't plan on always washing and drying in hot than I wouldn't preshrink it that way. Some may differ with me, but it's worked for what I've needed so far. Cotton does normally have a big shrink factor, so you do need to preshrink to some degree. I would wash in warm and dry at medium.


    ~Lea

  • Slippery Lace Headache

    added November 2001


    HELP!!! I volunteered to make plain old panels for my cousin's new house before the material was purchased. Well, he bought lace and I have discovered - to my horror - that polyester lace and sewing machines don't go well together. Since I will be making 18 panels, I really don't want to tackle the project by hand. I tried to press a hem and it was impossible to make it even - and the weave is too loose to pin it. What can I do? Can you please tell me how to measure and sew the hems and rod pockets so they are nice and even without having the material slip and slide all over the place? I will appreciate any help you can give me - believe me, I'm desperate!


    Lace curtains are lovely, but as you've noticed they are mostly holes.  Sew slowly using a 6" ruler to mark the hem or pocket as you go.  Hold down about an inch or two and sew, then measure again.  This will take forever, but you will make your cousin very happy.


    Well, I don't do curtain very often. Actually, I avoid them like the plague.


    ~Lea

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